Category: Solar 101

If you’ve Googled “how to fix a leaky flat roof”, chances are you already know the struggle. One page talks about one situation, another dives into something completely different, and half the time it’s not even what you were looking for. By the end, you’ve wasted precious time – all while dealing with the headache of a leaking flat roof. That’s exactly why I put this guide together. I’ve aimed to cover everything you need to know about fixing a leaky flat roof, whether you’re looking for a temporary patch or a permanent solution, and whether your roof is EPDM, TPO, PVC, or another type. Let’s get into it.

Signs Your Flat Roof Is Leaking

When we think of leaks, most of us picture water that’s dripping inside the home. Reality is, there are earlier signs of water intrusion you can spot long before the dripping starts, and catching these early can save you thousands in structural repairs – or even prevent a full-scale rebuild.

Water Stains on Ceilings or Walls

Yellow, brown or dark patches showing up on surfaces are often signs of flat roof leaking through ceiling or walls. Ignore it for too long, and those patches darken, spread wider, and cause further damage.

Dripping or Moisture Sounds

This is one of the most obvious signs that you’ll usually notice during or right after heavy rainfall. You might hear dripping above ceilings, inside walls, or even in attic spaces.

Mold, Musty Odors or Rotting Materials

Mold and mildew usually appear behind walls. On the inside, they come in the form of peeling paint or wallpaper. Either way, they’re not hard to miss given their earthy, stale, or damp smell. All of these usually hint at longer-term leaks that have gone unnoticed.

Sagging or Damp Attic/Ceiling

A ceiling that dips, bulges, or feels spongy is a big warning sign that means water has overloaded the materials, or worse, weakened them after being soaked for too long.

That makes it more than just an aesthetic issue. It’s now a structural problem. This usually affects drywall, plaster, or ceiling tiles, and is often accompanied by discoloration, rotting wood, or damp insulation.

Blistering, Bubbling or Cracking Membrane

Flat roof blistering, something I’ve discussed in depth in another article, happens when air or moisture gets trapped between roofing layers. While sometimes cosmetic, it can also point to something more serious, especially if the blisters have grown, cracked, or popped.

Once that happens, the roof’s inner layers are exposed, making it easier for water to penetrate and cause damage below

Common Causes of Flat Roof Leaks

Here’s a thought. Why not go straight to fixing the leak once identified? Because fixing a leak without understanding its root problem is like mopping up water while the tap’s still running. And that’s very counterproductive.

By knowing what actually triggers flat roof leaks, you’ll have a clearer idea of whether it’s something you can patch, monitor, or if it calls for professional repair.

Damaged or Aging Roofing Membrane

Flat roof membranes don’t last forever. They degrade over time due to UV exposure and temperature fluctuations, often showing up as cracks, splits, or areas that have turned brittle.

Once the membrane breaks down, water can easily seep in and start damaging the layers beneath, and eventually the inside of your home.

Failed Flashing Around Vents, Skylights, or Chimneys

Flashing is the thin strip of material (usually metal or rubber) that seals joints and edges where the roof meets penetrations like vents, skylights, or chimneys.

However, it does the opposite in cases where it’s corroded, cracked, or completely pulled away over time. Once it fails, these spots become prime entry points for water intrusion and leaks instead.

Ponding Water due to Poor Drainage

Ponding happens when rainwater pools on a flat roof instead of draining off.

Now, a puddle doesn’t automatically mean there’s a leak, but it can be an early warning sign for roof leaks. If left alone, the standing water can speed up membrane degradation, weaken seams, and eventually seep through cracks, penetrations, or failed flashing.

Improper Installation or Poor Workmanship

Failed flashing and ponding water are often the result of improper flat roof installation or poor workmanship.

In fact, when certain materials – like modified bitumen or single-ply membranes – are installed incorrectly, blistering becomes more common. And as I mentioned earlier, blistering can eventually lead to flat roof leaks.

Foot Traffic or Physical Damage

It’s not always the installation itself that’s the culprit. Sometimes, especially on flat roof decks, other activities can cause damage. HVAC units are a common example, as installers may accidentally puncture the membrane while working on equipment.

Even something as simple as dropping a tool can be enough to create a weak spot that lets water in.

Exposure to Weather Extremes

Hail, lightning, and strong winds gradually chip away at roofing materials, accelerating aging and creating breach points in the membrane. That’s why it’s common for older roofs to start leaking after a heavy storm as the elements push already weakened materials past their limit.

How to Find the Source of a Flat Roof Leak

Before you start cutting into blisters or patching holes, it’s crucial to actually find the source of the leak. Otherwise, you’re just treating the symptom, not the cause. Like I said earlier, think of it like mopping up a puddle while the faucet is still running. It doesn’t make sense until you shut off the water first.

Step 1: Find Damage and Leaks Indoors

Start by inspecting for leaks inside your home. Look for water stains on ceilings, beams, rafters, or walls, as well as peeling paint.

Once you spot signs of water damage, measure their distance from fixed points in the room, like a wall, window, or corner. This will help you later as you can match the interior damage and project it upwards to a potential entry point on the roof.

Step 2: Visually Inspect Your Roof

Pay special attention to areas where failure is most common, including flashings, seams, vents, pipes, and collars. Sometimes you’ll need to lean in closer to spot tiny gaps, especially in areas that were patched before, since old repairs can fail.

And while you’re at it, clear away debris like leaves, gravel, or branches, as these can hide blisters, small cracks, or even ponding water that might be the real culprit.

Step 3: Perform a Hose Test

When you have multiple suspect areas, it can be tricky to figure out which one is actually causing the leak. The hose test involves spraying water with a garden hose to simulate rain. Have a helper inside watch for drips while you soak the suspect roof sections.

A variation of the hose test that’s more applicable to flat roof decks is the flood test. This video from Practical Roofing Concepts explains it very well.

Flat roof blistering is one of those issues you don’t usually notice until you’re standing there, looking across your roof, and spotting strange bubbles that don’t look quite right. You freeze for a second and wonder, Is this harmless or is my roof in bigger trouble? In this guide, I’ll walk you through what those roof blisters or bubbles really mean, why they happen, when you should be concerned, and what you can do next, whether you try a small DIY patch or call in a roofing professional.

What is Flat Roof Blistering?

Flat roof blistering, often called roof bubbling, is a defect that shows up as raised, dome-like patches ranging from just a few inches wide to several feet across. They can look soft or bulgy – like a blister or bubble – or sometimes even cracked

It can look like this:

When people ask how much slate roofing costs, most expect a straightforward price per square foot. But as many homeowners later find out, that ballpark figure often doubles or even triples. That’s because the total cost depends on several factors beyond just materials and labor. In this guide, I’ll walk you through a slate roof’s price per square foot, as well as other key factors that influence the total cost. This way, you’ll know exactly what matters before you start planning your budget.

What is the Average Cost of Slate Roof?

The average cost to install a slate roof in the U.S. ranges from $5 to $30 per square foot or $500 to $3,000 per square (100 sq. ft). This means on a standard 2,000-square-foot roof, you can expect to pay somewhere between $10,000 and $60,000, with both material and labor accounted for already.

The difference between the upper and lower limits might come as a surprise, but that happens since several factors can push the price higher or lower. For example, the type of slate you choose, the complexity of your roof, and its current condition all play a role (more on this later).

So, is this expensive? Is the price justifiable? Homeowners will have different opinions on that, but to help you decide for yourself, the next sections will show how slate roofing prices vary by slate type, how they fare against other roofing materials, and how labor costs factor into the total price.

Slate Roofing Cost by Slate Type

The table below lists the three main types of slate roofing, along with their characteristics and average cost. 

Ever looked at a neighbor’s roof and thought, “How much energy are those solar panels actually producing – and would I get the same results if I installed the same setup?” That’s the kind of question I often hear from homeowners who want real numbers before making a big investment like solar. And it’s a smart one to ask, because even if you and your neighbor installed the same number of panels, your results could turn out completely different. In this guide, I’ll show you how much energy solar panels produce per day on average, explain the key factors that cause those numbers to vary from home to home, and walk you through how to calculate your own system’s daily output.

How Much Energy Do Solar Panels Produce Per Day On Average?

On average, a typical residential solar panel system in the U.S. produces about 25 to 40 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per day. 

Here’s how that number comes together:

• Most U.S. homes that want to fully power their home with solar energy install around 15 to 20 solar panels.
• A single residential solar panel today can produce up to 400 watts (or 0.4 kW), which is typical for newer, high-efficiency models.
• These panels operate best under peak sunlight, which averages 3 to 5 hours per day in many U.S. states.

Doing the math with those assumptions in mind:

• 20 panels × 0.4 kW each = 8 kW system
• 8 kW × 5 sun hours = 40 kWh per day

That’s how we arrive at that upper range. 

For a smaller 5-kW system with 12–14 panels, expect closer to 20 to 25 kWh per day.

As you can see from the calculation, a lot of factors come into play. A slight adjustment in our assumptions led to very different outcomes – just look at the gap between the upper and lower range. All that makes it hard to pin an exact number for how much solar panels produce daily.

So if you really want to answer this question for yourself, you’ll need to look at your own circumstances and lock in a set of assumptions that actually apply to you. And to help you make solid assumptions, I’ve broken down the key factors one by one in the next section.

Factors That Affect Daily Solar Panel Production

Solar Irradiance

Solar irradiance, or peak sun hours, is the amount of sunlight your panels receive in a day. More specifically, it’s how many hours the sunlight is strong enough to power your system at full output.

This is one of the biggest drivers of how much energy your panels can generate on any given day.

Sun hours depend heavily on where you live. For example, sunny states like Arizona or California can receive around 5 to 6 peak sun hours daily. Meanwhile, states like New York or Michigan only get around 4 hours

Especially for homeowners who are new to solar, there’s often this idea that once panels are installed, the electric bill disappears. Here’s the spoiler: You’ll still get a bill. But if you’re thinking that because you’re expecting big savings, you’re not wrong either. After years in residential solar and installing systems for hundreds of homeowners across the U.S., I’ve come to realize the real question on most people’s minds is this: How does the electric bill actually change after going solar? Read further as I show you the different ways solar panels can affect your electric bill and address related FAQs, so you’re not left scratching your head once your first post-solar bill lands in your inbox.

What Your Electric Bill Can Look Like After Installing Solar

Installing grid-tied solar panels often results in a lower bill. Other times, it ends up being zero or even negative, which is the ideal scenario. In a few cases, though, it doesn’t change much at all.

In large part, this shift happens because of net metering, a billing arrangement that tracks how much electricity you pull from the grid versus how much excess your panels send back.

That’s to say your electricity still flows through the same meter, but your bill gets calculated a bit differently.

Solar panels power your home first, and if there’s extra, it flows back to the grid. When your panels can’t meet your needs, your home pulls from the grid like usual. At the end of the billing cycle, your utility looks at how much you took versus how much you gave. That net difference is what shows up on your bill.

Let’s explore further each of the three scenarios mentioned.

Solar Panels Can Reduce Your Electric Bill

The most common outcome you can expect after going solar – and this is true for solar homes Avail Solar has serviced in Utah – is a noticeably lower electric bill. This happens when your solar panels are designed to cover only a portion of your monthly energy, something we call a partial offset.

Say before going solar, your monthly electric use averaged 900 kWh, and you paid about $0.16 per kWh. That would make your bill roughly $144 each month.

After you’ve installed solar panels designed to generate around 600 kWh per month:

• Your home still needs 900 kWh total.
• 600 kWh comes from your solar.
• The remaining 300 kWh comes from the grid.
• At the same $0.16/kWh utility rate, your bill now drops to $48 (plus any fixed utility fees)

By the time most people think about how to protect solar panels, damage has already been done. Sure, solar panels are built to last and are often treated as a “set-and-forget” setup. But they’re not indestructible. Every home faces different risks. One might be in a hail-free zone, while another deals with frequent storms or heavy pollen. Those differences can change how vulnerable your system really is. Thankfully, keeping your system protected doesn’t have to be complicated. In this article, I’ll walk you through the key risks, along with simple and practical methods on how to keep your solar panels safe year-round.

Ways to Protect Solar Panels From Damage

Hailstorm Protection

Most solar panels can withstand hail. In fact, I’ve seen homeowners come out of a hailstorm with zero damage to their system, even when their roof took a beating.

However, this doesn’t mean panels are invincible. Hail ranks among the leading causes of severe weather-related insurance claims in the U.S., especially in states like Texas and Nebraska where storms are frequent and intense. Cracks can still happen, especially if hail hits at just the right angle or combines with strong wind.

That said, if you’re in a hail-prone region or just want peace of mind, here’s what you can do:

• Adjust the tilt (if possible). Ground-mounted or tracker panels can sometimes be angled to reduce direct hail impact. But be careful, as adjusting the angle could increase wind exposure. Asking for professional guidance is recommended in this case.
• Use hail nets or shields. These physical barriers can help absorb or deflect hail, especially in places where spring and summer storms are a yearly concern.
• Stay alert during hail season. Follow the weather forecast so you’re not caught off guard.
• Review your insurance policy. Many homeowner policies include hail damage, but make sure to double-check if that’s the case for you. You don’t want to find out the hard way that your coverage falls short.

Lightning Protection

Solar panels themselves don’t attract lightning, but the risk comes from poor grounding. If your system isn’t grounded properly, a single surge can destroy your inverter, damage your wiring, or worse, cause a fire.

In normal circumstances, homeowners don’t have to worry about lightning risks, especially if your system is installed by a licensed professional. Proper grounding and safety measures are built into the installation process and required by electrical codes.

Of course, there’s no harm in confirming this. Ask your installer if a lightning arrestor or any other surge protection device has been included to keep your system safe.

Surge Protection

Surges aren’t just caused by lightning. Grid switching, downed lines, and unstable power in rural or older neighborhoods can also send unexpected voltage spikes through your system.

Your solar panels themselves are not the weak link. It’s the inverter and your home’s sensitive electronics that take the hit.

That’s why surge protection deserves its own attention, even if you already have grounding in place.

To reduce this risk, talk to your installer about adding a surge protection device (SPD).

Type 1 or Type 2 SPDs, installed at your main panel or near your inverter, can help block these voltage spikes before they cause trouble.

And while you’re at it, take a moment to review your insurance policy. Some plans don’t cover surge-related damage unless specific protections are already in place.

Protection from Wildlife

You might not think twice about birds or squirrels when looking at your solar setup, but these critters are one of the sneakiest threats to your system.

They nest under your panels not just for shelter. They also chew wires, leave behind corrosive droppings, and sometimes dislodge panels or racking hardware.

And because these issues build up quietly, many homeowners don’t notice the damage until system performance drops or a major fault is detected. To stay ahead of costly damage, here’s what you can do:

• Install wire mesh or critter guards. These barriers run along the edges of your panel array and block birds or rodents from nesting underneath, while still allowing airflow.
• Watch for early signs of damage. Droppings, scratching noises, or visible nests under your panels are signs you should act quickly.
• Call a professional. Poorly installed mesh protectors (as a result of DIY installation) can trap debris, cause rust, or damage the panel frame itself. Reach out to your installer (or a licensed wildlife control expert, if necessary) for help.

Rain Protection

Rain on its own won’t harm your solar panels. On the contrary, it can be beneficial as it helps rinse away dust, pollen, and other debris that would otherwise block sunlight.

The real risk comes when rainwater pools in areas it shouldn’t. On flat roofs or areas with poor drainage, standing water can slowly corrode wiring, mounts, or other hardware, which can lead to bigger problems over time.

Here’s how to avoid that:

• Install panels at a tilt. Angled panels allow water to slide off naturally rather than collect underneath.
• Keep gutters and downspouts clear. Clogged drainage can cause overflow that may affect nearby solar components.
• Inspect drainage around your system. If water tends to pool in certain areas, ask your installer about possible design adjustments.

Protection From Dust, Dirt, and Debris

Dust, dirt, and debris are three of the most common reasons solar panels underperform, especially in dry areas, near farmland, or close to construction zones.

These elements can form a film that blocks sunlight from reaching the solar cells. That drop in output often goes unnoticed until a spike in your electric bill or a dip in your monitoring app alerts you.

Here’s how to keep your panels clean and clear:

• Clean your panels regularly. For most homes, rinsing once or twice a year with a garden hose is enough to maintain performance. However, homes near farmland, dusty roads, or construction areas may need more frequent cleaning.
• Avoid pressure washers. They can damage seals or crack the glass. For more, see our solar panel cleaning guide.
• Trim nearby trees and vegetation. This helps prevent falling leaves, pollen, and other debris from collecting on or under your panels.

Fire Protection

Fires caused directly by solar panels are rare. In most cases, the real issue is electrical arcing, which tends to start from weak points like poor wiring or loose connections. These flaws can lead to overheating and eventually cause a fire.

Here are a few ways to reduce the risk of fire hazards around your solar system:

• Confirm built-in fire safety features. Ask your installer whether your system includes arc fault detection and rapid shutdown devices. These are now required by most codes and can shut things down before a fault escalates.
• Schedule inspections after major storms. Even if your roof looks fine from the ground, a professional check can catch wiring issues or loose connections that may not be obvious.
• Clear out dry debris. Keep the area beneath and around your panels free of dry leaves, branches, or twigs, especially if you live in a wildfire-prone region.

For further information, make sure to check our guide on solar panel fires.

Flood Protection

Most rooftop panels sit high enough to avoid floodwaters. The concern lies with ground-mounted panels. If not properly sealed or elevated, these components can suffer from short circuits, inverter failure, and long-term corrosion.

If your solar system is in a flood-prone area, here’s how to keep it protected:

• Ask your installer to raise key components above base flood elevation. A professional should make sure your inverter, wiring, and battery aren’t sitting where flood water can easily reach them.
• Confirm enclosure protection. Ask your installer whether the enclosures are rated NEMA 4 or higher, as these are better at keeping water out.
• Request a flood risk assessment. Your installer may recommend relocating vulnerable components or upgrading to more flood-resistant gear based on your property layout.

General Tips for Solar Panel Protection

Some protective habits are worth following no matter what type of threat you’re dealing with. Think of these tips as your solar system’s SOPs to prevent small issues from turning into bigger problems:

• Disconnect solar panels when unused for extended periods. This prevents unnecessary wear on the system and reduces exposure to electrical risks.
• Add your system to your home insurance policy. Most providers allow this at little or no added cost, but you’ll want it in writing.
• Choose certified panels and parts. Standardized, well-rated equipment usually means better protection, easier repairs, and stronger warranties – something a certified solar installer can help you with.
• Schedule a yearly inspection. Check for cracks, loose wiring, corrosion, or dirt buildup. If you’re working with a Solar EPC, they can handle these inspections as part of your routine maintenance plan.
• Avoid experimental coatings or DIY sprays. Panels already use tempered glass, which is stronger than polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) or plastic layers. Adding more may do more harm than good, not just to the panel structure but also to performance.
• Call your installer when in doubt. Keep in mind that some fixes may void your solar warranty or introduce new issues. To be safer, check with a solar professional.

Install Your Home Solar Panels the Right Way

Always remember: No upgrade, fix, or workaround later on will match the reliability of a system that’s been installed properly from the start. A well-installed system runs quietly, performs efficiently, and rarely demands attention beyond routine checks.

And it all comes down to working with a certified solar installer – someone who can design your system to meet both your energy goals and long-term protection standards.

We at Avail Solar have installed home systems for hundreds of confident solar owners across Utah, Nevada, and Colorado. Request a quote today and see how we can help!

Ask any homeowner in Utah what’s stopping them from going solar, and you’ll almost hear the same thing: The upfront cost. And that’s understandably so, especially when that five-figure quote is staring you in the face Fortunately, that’s where Utah solar incentives come in to help you shave thousands off what you’d otherwise shell out. Better yet, most of these benefits stack, meaning you’re not just relying on one discount, but layering several together to make solar way more affordable than it looks at first glance. In this article, I’ll break down Utah’s current solar incentives and how they can work in your favor.

Utah Solar Incentives 2025

Residential Clean Energy Credit

The Residential Clean Energy Credit is a federal tax credit worth 30% of your total solar installation cost – including panels, inverters, labor, and even batteries.

This is arguably the most generous solar incentive available today. If your system costs $20,000, you’ll cut $6,000 straight off your tax bill. For emphasis, this is not a deduction or rebate, but a direct credit against taxes you owe.

To claim this incentive, you must file IRS Form 5695 with your federal tax return.

Keep in mind, however, that how much you can claim in a given year depends on your tax liability. The good news is that if your tax liability is lower than the credit, you can carry forward the remaining credit in future years. 

The federal solar tax credit is available to all U.S. homeowners through at least 2032 under the Inflation Reduction Act.

Net Metering in Utah

Net metering (or in some cases, net billing) is a utility billing program that lets you earn credit for the extra solar power your home sends back to the grid.

Here’s a bit of context: Most people use the most electricity after sunset, right when your solar panels stop producing. Net metering helps bridge that gap. Your overproduction during sunny hours doesn’t go to waste, but rather, gets banked as credits that help cover your nighttime and cloudy-day usage.

Essentially, it’s like trading your unused daytime electricity for future bill savings.

Now that that’s out of the way, the question then becomes: How much credit can you actually earn from it? It depends largely on your utility provider’s net metering policies.

• Rocky Mountain Power (RMP): Uses net billing, where excess energy is credited at the utility’s avoided-cost rate (between 4 to 6¢/kWh, depending on the billing month)
• Provo Power: Uses net billing, where they compensate excess solar generation at a fixed export rate of 6.7 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh).
• Murray City Power: Offers net metering, where every kWh you export is credited at the retail rate (1 to 1 net metering). 
• City of St. George: Also on net billing. You’re paid for excess energy at wholesale market rates, not retail. Exact fees are available on their official website.
• Heber Light & Power: Offers net metering. Compensation rates for excess energy are available on their official website.

As you can see, some utilities compensate for excess solar energy at full retail rate while others at a lower wholesale or avoided-cost rate. And that difference has everything to do with how much you’ll actually save.

But either way, these programs all help you recoup your solar investment and eventually shorten your solar payback period. 

Your solar installer will handle the interconnection paperwork and enroll you in your utility’s net metering program as part of the installation process.

Energy-Efficient Mortgages

Energy-Efficient Mortgages (EEMs) is a loan program that lets you roll solar costs into your mortgage, either when buying a new home or refinancing your existing one.

That means you can fund home energy upgrades without taking a separate loan, and spread the solar costs over 15 to 30 years, often at lower interest rates than personal loans or solar-specific financing.

Eligible upgrades typically include:

• Solar PV systems
• Battery storage
• ENERGY STAR® appliances
• Insulation
• Energy-efficient windows and HVAC systems

To apply, you’ll need to work with a participating mortgage lender. Let them know you’re interested in an EEM, and they’ll guide you through eligibility and documentation (usually including a home energy audit to verify savings):

• If you’re using an FHA or VA loan, you can ask the lender if they can add an EEM feature. 
• For conventional loans, ask if they support Fannie Mae’s HomeStyle® Energy product.

Battery Storage Incentives in Utah

If you’re already thinking about investing in a solar battery (or looking for reasons to invest in one), know that – apart from the 30% federal solar tax credit – another way you can get “paid” for a home solar battery is through Rocky Mountain Power’s Wattsmart Battery Program.

The Wattsmart Battery Program rewards homeowners for letting the utility tap into their battery storage during periods of high grid demand, such as during hot summer afternoons or winter peaks. In return, you get paid for every kilowatt of storage capacity your battery provides.

Here’s how you can benefit from this program:

• Enrollment Incentive: Upfront cash payment of $400 per kilowatt (with a $2,000 cap per household)
• Annual Bill Credits: $15 per kilowatt (starting in the 2nd year of the program)

To qualify, you must be an RMP residential customer. Moreover, your battery must be from the utility’s approved equipment list.

Is the Renewable Energy Systems Tax Credit Still Available?

No, Utah’s former state-initiated solar tax credit is no longer available for homeowners. The program, officially known as the Renewable Energy Systems Tax Credit (RESTC), ended for residential systems installed after December 31, 2023.

That means if you installed your solar panels in 2024 or later, you won’t be able to claim any state tax credit from Utah.

Why Am I Not Getting My Full Solar Tax Credit?

If your federal solar tax credit isn’t as big as you expected, the most common reason is that you didn’t owe enough in taxes. If your tax liability is too low for the year, you won’t be able to claim the full amount in the first year. However, you can roll over the unused portion for future years.

Is Solar Worth It in Utah?

Yes, solar is absolutely worth it in Utah. If you pause for a second and look beyond just the price tag, you’ll see why going solar makes sense in Utah, not just on paper, but also in practice:

• Electricity prices aren’t staying put in Utah. In just one year alone from early 2024 to early 2025, average residential electricity prices in Utah rose from around 10 cents to nearly 12 cents per kilowatt-hour – a 20% jump. Going solar lets you lock in a steady cost for years to come, softening the blow of such price hikes.
• Homes with solar sell for more. That means if you ever decide to move, you’re more likely to sell your home quicker and for a better price.
• Utah gets about 5.5 peak sun hours per day. That’s more than New York, Massachusetts, and even parts of California. More sunlight means more energy from your system, faster payback, and better long-term savings.

Final Thoughts on Utah Solar Incentives

If you’ve done some prior research, you might have noticed that Utah doesn’t exactly roll out the flashiest rebates like states such as California, New Jersey, or New York.

But here’s the thing: Incentives are just one part of the equation. What really makes or breaks your solar savings is how well your system is designed – from panel placement to inverter choice to matching your usage patterns. And that’s something a reputable solar installer can help you get right.

If you want to know what a well-designed solar system tailored to your home’s energy needs could actually cost you in Utah, request a quote today. We at Avail Solar have installed hundreds of systems across the state, and we’re confident we can give you a price that fits both your goals and your budget. 

If you already see the value solar provides and are ready to move forward, you likely now face the next big decision: Choosing the right provider through the solar proposals you receive. Here’s the thing. It’s not always apples to apples. Proposals can differ in scope, assumptions, and the level of detail, and that’s where things can either go smoothly or leave you scratching your head. Having worked on several home solar projects throughout Utah with Avail Solar (and having prepared many of those solar proposals myself), I wrote this article to walk you through exactly what a proposal should include. More importantly, I’ll point out which details you need to pay attention to so you can tell whether the offer in front of you truly fits your home and situation. After all, this isn’t a project that sits on your roof for a week, but one that’ll likely stay with your home for decades.

What’s Included in a Solar Proposal?

These are the key elements you should clearly look into once you receive a solar proposal.

System Size (kW)

System size, measured in kilowatts (kW), refers to the total power output your solar system can produce at full capacity. In most proposals, this will be one of the first numbers you see, often shown as something like “6.2 kW system.”

This number matters because it gives you a snapshot of how much electricity your system could generate, but it should ideally line up with your actual energy use at home. Too small, and you fall short. Too big, and you might be overspending for power you won’t use.

I wrote a separate guide on how to size your solar system. You can use it to check whether the system size listed in your proposal actually makes sense based on your household’s energy needs.

Estimated Annual Production (kWh)

Estimated annual production refers to the amount of electricity your solar system is expected to generate over a full year, expressed in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

Because it’s in the same unit as your utility bills, it’s easy to compare this number against your past energy use and see how well the system is expected to cover your needs.

Keep in mind that a thought-through solar proposal won’t just give you a single yearly estimate. It will usually include a month-by-month breakdown, either in table form or as a graph. This lets you see how your solar production might rise or dip throughout the year.

Even better, most proposals will show this production estimate right next to your own historical energy usage. That way, you can immediately see how well the system is expected to meet your actual needs (solar providers will usually ask for your recent utility data to do this).

It’s also fair to expect the proposal to clearly state what assumptions were used to come up with these numbers. That includes shading losses, orientation of your roof, and local weather patterns, among other things.

Project Site Layout

The project site layout is a visual representation of how your solar panels will be positioned on your roof (or elsewhere on your property), a bird’s-eye view showing where each panel will go, essentially.

If you look a bit deeper, this layout also shows surrounding buildings, trees, and other potential obstructions that may create shading, along with the direction your panels are facing, which also affects your production.

This matters because it gives you added context for the assumptions made earlier in the simulation used to estimate your annual production.

Estimated Savings, ROI, and Payback Period

A well-prepared proposal should show you the dollar outcomes clearly, because beyond the goal of cutting down carbon, solar is, first and foremost, an investment. That being said, you can expect to see:

• Estimated savings: Usually refer to how much you’ll avoid paying the utility over your panels’ lifespan (around 20 to 25 years). These are often shown in dollar amounts, either as a lump sum or year-over-year comparison.
• Payback period: Tells you how long it might take for your savings to equal the cost of your system, or essentially, when your system has paid for itself.
• Return on Investment (ROI): Gives you more financial lens to compare your solar system with other big-ticket investments, like home renovations or even stock market returns.

These often show up as tables, bar graphs, or line charts in your proposal, helping you see how your money moves over time.

On this note, it helps if the proposal also states upfront any assumptions about rising electricity costs, since even a small utility escalator can quietly shape how realistic those savings projections really are.

If you want to understand exactly how these numbers are calculated, I wrote a full article breaking down solar panel return on investment. It’ll hopefully help you do your own math to see whether the savings in your proposal are realistic or inflated.

Financing Options

Like many solar companies, we, at Avail Solar, work with trusted financing partners to make solar more accessible. Because let’s face it, solar isn’t exactly cheap by any means, and most homeowners need flexible options to make it work.

That’s why your proposal should clearly show:

• Who the financing provider is
• How many payments you’ll be making (and how often)
• The exact dollar amount per payment.

You’ll usually get a visual breakdown as well, a simple cash flow chart showing what you’re expected to pay over time and how that compares against projected savings.

Some proposals may also include options like solar leases or Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs), which sound great upfront since they often come with zero initial cost.

However, they could end up costing you more in the long run, especially because you won’t own the system. If you want the full picture, I wrote an article on how solar panel leasing works, where I also explain why, personally, I’m not a fan of these types of solar contracts.

Total Cost of Your System

The total cost of your solar system is, of course, a major detail. But don’t just stop at this headline figure.

You’ll want to check if the math includes solar incentives, like the 30% federal tax credit or any state/local programs, which can cut thousands off the final amount. These should be clearly stated in the proposal.

Another useful figure is cost per watt ($/W), which is one of the simplest ways to compare pricing across different offers. Some proposals leave it out, but you can calculate it yourself: Just divide the total system cost (before incentives) by the system size in watts.

Panel and Inverter Brands/Models

Imagine being promised premium, high-efficiency equipment in your proposal, only to find out later during installation that you’re getting something else entirely. It happens, and many times, it’s not even intentional.

That’s why it’s worth knowing exactly what equipment you’re getting upfront, especially since quality often isn’t broken down line by line, but rather rolled into the total system cost.

Panels on the higher end typically have higher efficiencies, stronger warranties, and better manufacturer backing. As for inverters, microinverters, string inverters, and hybrid setups each come with their own pros and tradeoffs.

If product data sheets aren’t included in the proposal, you can always request them directly from the solar provider. These documents give you a deeper look into the specs and certifications of the equipment being offered.

Warranties and Guarantees

Another item usually bundled into your total system cost is the warranty coverage, which is something you shouldn’t overlook, especially since solar is meant to last decades:

• Product warranties usually come from the panel and inverter manufacturers and cover defects in materials or workmanship. These often run for 10 to 25 years.
• Performance warranties guarantee that your solar panels will continue producing at a certain percentage (typically 80% or higher) of their original capacity by year 25.
• Workmanship warranties are offered by the installer and cover labor-related issues, like improper mounting or wiring mistakes. These vary by company but often range from 5 to 15 years.

If you want a deeper dive into what each of these warranties covers (and what they don’t), check out our full guide on solar panel warranties.

Project Scope

One area that often causes the most friction down the line is the project scope. This is the part that outlines what your installer is actually responsible for, and what they aren’t.

This matters because some of the biggest misunderstandings happen when homeowners think something is included, only to find out later it’s not. That’s where those “hidden cost” surprises often come from.

That said, here are a few key things your proposal should spell out clearly:

• Who handles what: Does your installer take care of solar permitting and HOA approvals? What about any fees tied to that? Will they assist with post-installation support, like monitoring setup or panel cleaning?
• Timeline expectations: What’s the estimated schedule for permitting, installation, and final grid interconnection? Delays can happen, sure, but your proposal should at least give you a baseline so you’re not left unclear when things will move forward.
• Aesthetic considerations: Did the installer take time to ask about your preferences? That could include choosing all-black modules, using conduit runs that are less visible, or adding array skirts to make your system blend in better from the curb.

Solar Company Details

Most proposals will include a quick blurb about the company offering the installation. That’s pretty much standard. But don’t just take those statements at face value, because what a company says about itself and what its customers experience can be two very different things.

That said, I always recommend doing your own research. And one of the best ways to do that is to give them a call. Ask direct questions and pay attention to how they respond. I put together a guide on questions to ask solar companies that you can use as a reference if you’re not sure where to start.

Solar Proposals Vary by Home

If your cousin in another state (or even just a few neighborhoods away) tells you they got solar for way less or with different equipment, don’t be surprised if your proposal looks nothing like theirs. Here are 5 reasons why no two solar proposals are the same:

• Electricity rates, annual inflation, and average sunlight hours differ by region, which means the same system in one state might produce more or less in another.
• Different installers may use different assumptions or tools in their simulations, which can lead to wide variations in projected energy production.
• Some panels are more efficient and degrade more slowly over time, but they may cost more upfront. What you’re quoted depends heavily on what you’re being offered.
• Some proposals include extras like batteries, monitoring, or extended warranties. Others leave these out or treat them as optional add-ons.
• Not all proposals are equally transparent. Some give you every number and assumption up front, while others bury critical details or gloss over them entirely.

If you already have a reference proposal from another installer, you can always bring it to your current provider. Avail Solar, for instance, will help walk you through the differences and explain whether there’s room to match the offer or if your system needs a different setup.

Get Solar Proposals That Match Your Needs

By now, you’ve seen what goes into a well-prepared solar proposal and how the real focus should be on how well the proposal fits your home, usage, and long-term goals, not just the price tag. 

So before saying yes to anything, make sure you’ve asked the right questions, got a second opinion, and taken the time to really think it through.

And if you’re ready to request a quick proposal (or want something more competitive than what you already have), reach out to Avail Solar and request a quote today!

If you already see the value solar provides and are ready to move forward, you likely now face the next big decision: Choosing the right provider through the solar proposals you receive. Here’s the thing. It’s not always apples to apples. Proposals can differ in scope, assumptions, and the level of detail, and that’s where things can either go smoothly or leave you scratching your head. Having worked on several home solar projects throughout Utah with Avail Solar (and having prepared many of those solar proposals myself), I wrote this article to walk you through exactly what a proposal should include. More importantly, I’ll point out which details you need to pay attention to so you can tell whether the offer in front of you truly fits your home and situation. After all, this isn’t a project that sits on your roof for a week, but one that’ll likely stay with your home for decades.

What’s Included in a Solar Proposal?

These are the key elements you should clearly look into once you receive a solar proposal.

System Size (kW)

System size, measured in kilowatts (kW), refers to the total power output your solar system can produce at full capacity. In most proposals, this will be one of the first numbers you see, often shown as something like “6.2 kW system.”

This number matters because it gives you a snapshot of how much electricity your system could generate, but it should ideally line up with your actual energy use at home. Too small, and you fall short. Too big, and you might be overspending for power you won’t use.

I wrote a separate guide on how to size your solar system. You can use it to check whether the system size listed in your proposal actually makes sense based on your household’s energy needs.

Estimated Annual Production (kWh)

Estimated annual production refers to the amount of electricity your solar system is expected to generate over a full year, expressed in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

Because it’s in the same unit as your utility bills, it’s easy to compare this number against your past energy use and see how well the system is expected to cover your needs.

Keep in mind that a thought-through solar proposal won’t just give you a single yearly estimate. It will usually include a month-by-month breakdown, either in table form or as a graph. This lets you see how your solar production might rise or dip throughout the year.

Even better, most proposals will show this production estimate right next to your own historical energy usage. That way, you can immediately see how well the system is expected to meet your actual needs (solar providers will usually ask for your recent utility data to do this).

It’s also fair to expect the proposal to clearly state what assumptions were used to come up with these numbers. That includes shading losses, orientation of your roof, and local weather patterns, among other things.

Project Site Layout

The project site layout is a visual representation of how your solar panels will be positioned on your roof (or elsewhere on your property), a bird’s-eye view showing where each panel will go, essentially.

If you look a bit deeper, this layout also shows surrounding buildings, trees, and other potential obstructions that may create shading, along with the direction your panels are facing, which also affects your production.

This matters because it gives you added context for the assumptions made earlier in the simulation used to estimate your annual production.

Estimated Savings, ROI, and Payback Period

A well-prepared proposal should show you the dollar outcomes clearly, because beyond the goal of cutting down carbon, solar is, first and foremost, an investment. That being said, you can expect to see:

• Estimated savings: Usually refer to how much you’ll avoid paying the utility over your panels’ lifespan (around 20 to 25 years). These are often shown in dollar amounts, either as a lump sum or year-over-year comparison.
• Payback period: Tells you how long it might take for your savings to equal the cost of your system, or essentially, when your system has paid for itself.
• Return on Investment (ROI): Gives you more financial lens to compare your solar system with other big-ticket investments, like home renovations or even stock market returns.

These often show up as tables, bar graphs, or line charts in your proposal, helping you see how your money moves over time.

On this note, it helps if the proposal also states upfront any assumptions about rising electricity costs, since even a small utility escalator can quietly shape how realistic those savings projections really are.

If you want to understand exactly how these numbers are calculated, I wrote a full article breaking down solar panel return on investment. It’ll hopefully help you do your own math to see whether the savings in your proposal are realistic or inflated.

Financing Options

Like many solar companies, we, at Avail Solar, work with trusted financing partners to make solar more accessible. Because let’s face it, solar isn’t exactly cheap by any means, and most homeowners need flexible options to make it work.

That’s why your proposal should clearly show:

• Who the financing provider is
• How many payments you’ll be making (and how often)
• The exact dollar amount per payment.

You’ll usually get a visual breakdown as well, a simple cash flow chart showing what you’re expected to pay over time and how that compares against projected savings.

Some proposals may also include options like solar leases or Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs), which sound great upfront since they often come with zero initial cost.

However, they could end up costing you more in the long run, especially because you won’t own the system. If you want the full picture, I wrote an article on how solar panel leasing works, where I also explain why, personally, I’m not a fan of these types of solar contracts.

Total Cost of Your System

The total cost of your solar system is, of course, a major detail. But don’t just stop at this headline figure.

You’ll want to check if the math includes solar incentives, like the 30% federal tax credit or any state/local programs, which can cut thousands off the final amount. These should be clearly stated in the proposal.

Another useful figure is cost per watt ($/W), which is one of the simplest ways to compare pricing across different offers. Some proposals leave it out, but you can calculate it yourself: Just divide the total system cost (before incentives) by the system size in watts.

Panel and Inverter Brands/Models

Imagine being promised premium, high-efficiency equipment in your proposal, only to find out later during installation that you’re getting something else entirely. It happens, and many times, it’s not even intentional.

That’s why it’s worth knowing exactly what equipment you’re getting upfront, especially since quality often isn’t broken down line by line, but rather rolled into the total system cost.

Panels on the higher end typically have higher efficiencies, stronger warranties, and better manufacturer backing. As for inverters, microinverters, string inverters, and hybrid setups each come with their own pros and tradeoffs.

If product data sheets aren’t included in the proposal, you can always request them directly from the solar provider. These documents give you a deeper look into the specs and certifications of the equipment being offered.

Warranties and Guarantees

Another item usually bundled into your total system cost is the warranty coverage, which is something you shouldn’t overlook, especially since solar is meant to last decades:

• Product warranties usually come from the panel and inverter manufacturers and cover defects in materials or workmanship. These often run for 10 to 25 years.
• Performance warranties guarantee that your solar panels will continue producing at a certain percentage (typically 80% or higher) of their original capacity by year 25.
• Workmanship warranties are offered by the installer and cover labor-related issues, like improper mounting or wiring mistakes. These vary by company but often range from 5 to 15 years.

If you want a deeper dive into what each of these warranties covers (and what they don’t), check out our full guide on solar panel warranties.

Project Scope

One area that often causes the most friction down the line is the project scope. This is the part that outlines what your installer is actually responsible for, and what they aren’t.

This matters because some of the biggest misunderstandings happen when homeowners think something is included, only to find out later it’s not. That’s where those “hidden cost” surprises often come from.

That said, here are a few key things your proposal should spell out clearly:

• Who handles what: Does your installer take care of solar permitting and HOA approvals? What about any fees tied to that? Will they assist with post-installation support, like monitoring setup or panel cleaning?
• Timeline expectations: What’s the estimated schedule for permitting, installation, and final grid interconnection? Delays can happen, sure, but your proposal should at least give you a baseline so you’re not left unclear when things will move forward.
• Aesthetic considerations: Did the installer take time to ask about your preferences? That could include choosing all-black modules, using conduit runs that are less visible, or adding array skirts to make your system blend in better from the curb.

Solar Company Details

Most proposals will include a quick blurb about the company offering the installation. That’s pretty much standard. But don’t just take those statements at face value, because what a company says about itself and what its customers experience can be two very different things.

That said, I always recommend doing your own research. And one of the best ways to do that is to give them a call. Ask direct questions and pay attention to how they respond. I put together a guide on questions to ask solar companies that you can use as a reference if you’re not sure where to start.

Solar Proposals Vary by Home

If your cousin in another state (or even just a few neighborhoods away) tells you they got solar for way less or with different equipment, don’t be surprised if your proposal looks nothing like theirs. Here are 5 reasons why no two solar proposals are the same:

• Electricity rates, annual inflation, and average sunlight hours differ by region, which means the same system in one state might produce more or less in another.
• Different installers may use different assumptions or tools in their simulations, which can lead to wide variations in projected energy production.
• Some panels are more efficient and degrade more slowly over time, but they may cost more upfront. What you’re quoted depends heavily on what you’re being offered.
• Some proposals include extras like batteries, monitoring, or extended warranties. Others leave these out or treat them as optional add-ons.
• Not all proposals are equally transparent. Some give you every number and assumption up front, while others bury critical details or gloss over them entirely.

If you already have a reference proposal from another installer, you can always bring it to your current provider. Avail Solar, for instance, will help walk you through the differences and explain whether there’s room to match the offer or if your system needs a different setup.

Get Solar Proposals That Match Your Needs

By now, you’ve seen what goes into a well-prepared solar proposal and how the real focus should be on how well the proposal fits your home, usage, and long-term goals, not just the price tag. 

So before saying yes to anything, make sure you’ve asked the right questions, got a second opinion, and taken the time to really think it through.

And if you’re ready to request a quick proposal (or want something more competitive than what you already have), reach out to Avail Solar and request a quote today!

If you’re installing a grid-tied solar system for your home, chances are you’ll rely on a certified installer to figure out the technical stuff, including how big your system should be. But if you’re the type who wants to get to the bottom of how sizing works before anyone starts quoting you with numbers (especially when every extra kilowatt can add thousands to the total cost), you’re in the right place. In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to size your home solar system step-by-step, so you can double-check whether your installer’s proposal makes sense.

How to Size a Solar System in 5 Steps

Step 1: Know Your Average Monthly Energy Use (kWh)

A good approach to determining a solid baseline for your household energy use is by collecting your last 12 months of electric bills and checking the monthly kilowatt-hour (kWh) usage. From there, take the average of those 12 months.

Averaging smooths out those highs and lows, especially considering consumption spikes in summer when the AC runs all day, and again in winter with heating.

Now, you could also begin by looking at your budget or available roof space (we’ll cover those later). But averaging your last 12 months of energy use is arguably the most reliable method for estimating your solar system size since it’s based on actual data and not assumptions.

Step 2: Convert Monthly Use into Daily Average

Now that you’ve got your monthly average from Step 1, the next step is figuring out your daily usage. Simply divide your monthly average by 30.

Say your average monthly use is 900 kWh (which is roughly the average energy consumption for a U.S. household), then your average daily use amounts to: 

900 kWh ÷ 30 days = 30 kWh per day

That means, if you’re planning to offset 100% of your usage, your solar system needs to be capable of producing 30 kWh per day as well.

In a sense, you now have a rough idea of what your system should cover daily, and thus its “size”. However, this doesn’t give the full picture because when we talk about solar system size, we refer to it in kilowatts (kW), not kilowatt-hours (kWh).

To close the loop, we’ll use your average daily usage alongside your location’s sun hours, as we’ll do in the next step.

Step 3: Account for Your Location’s Sun Hours

Average daily sun hours is a measure of how many hours per day the sun is strong enough to generate power. You can find your area’s average sun hours using this solar irradiance map from the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL).