Category: Solar 101

The days of TPO roofing being mostly associated with commercial buildings are long gone. In fact, the New American Home 2026 used a commercial-grade TPO roofing system on a luxury home, in part to help meet its ambitious energy-performance goals. As such, TPO can make sense for everything from flat-roof homes and garages to modern-style homes and low-slope dormers. But as a relatively newer single-ply roofing system compared with EPDM and modified bitumen, you may be wondering: How long do TPO roofs last? Ahead, we’ll cover the typical lifespan, what affects it, and what you can do to help yours last longer.

How Long Does a TPO Roof Last?

A thermoplastic polyolefin (TPO) roof can last between 15 and 30 years. A well-installed and well-maintained roof made with a quality membrane can last even longer.

A field study from GAF, one of the largest roofing manufacturers in North America, examined samples from 20 TPO roofs across the U.S. that had already spent at least 12 years in service.

Even after more than a decade out in the elements, the aged membranes still performed to a high standard, with most samples meeting ASTM requirements for newly manufactured TPO.

More impressive still is a TPO roof installed in Spain in 1999. When evaluated 20 years later, it reportedly showed no cracking, crazing, or loss of thickness. Despite years of exposure to Spain’s high UV levels, the membrane remained flexible and weldable, allowing repairs to be made easily and without resorting to more complex measures.

With decades of documented field performance, it’s no surprise that manufacturer warranties for TPO roofing systems can stretch from 10 to 30 years.

Of course, a warranty isn’t a promise of exactly how long your roof will last, but it’s a good indication of the service life manufacturers are prepared to stand behind.

Why TPO Roofing Lasts Decades

On a flat or low-slope roof, seams deserve extra attention. They’re among the areas most susceptible to leaks. If not installed correctly, they can allow water to seep beneath the membrane and cause moisture damage.

This is where TPO has an advantage through its heat-welded seams. Installers use hot air to soften the overlapping TPO membranes before they’re pressed together and fused into one continuous, watertight bond.

When welded using proper installation practices, the seam can become so strong that, hypothetically, pulling it apart would cause the membrane itself to tear before the welded surfaces separate.

Contrast that with EPDM, whose seams are typically joined using adhesive or seam tape. Or modified bitumen, which is commonly installed using torch-applied, hot asphalt, cold adhesive, or self-adhered methods.

Each roofing system has its own strengths, but when it comes to seam strength and reliability, properly heat-welded TPO seams have an advantage over traditional EPDM adhesive or tape seams.

That being said, this mechanism only works as intended when it’s put in skilled hands. A poorly executed weld can turn what should be one of TPO’s greatest strengths into a potential leak point.

Factors That Affect the Lifespan of TPO Roofs

Why can one TPO roof need replacement after around 15 years while another is still going strong at 30? Below are the different factors that can affect its longevity.

Membrane Thickness

TPO roofing membranes come in 45-, 60-, and 80-mil thicknesses (one mil equals one-thousandth of an inch).

The thicker the membrane, the more protective TPO there is above the reinforcing scrim. At the same time, it provides greater resistance to punctures and other physical damage that could otherwise cut the roof’s service life short.

You’re much better off choosing a 60-mil TPO instead of the thinner 45-mil option, especially when your roof has HVAC equipment, solar panels, or other reasons for regular foot traffic.

A thicker membrane will fare better against accidentally dropped tools or sharp debris during servicing, which can cause puncture damage just as much as hail can.

Quality of Installation

Earlier, we discussed how a TPO roof’s heat-welded seams are one of its greatest strengths – but only when they’re installed using proper welding practices.

Installing TPO requires getting the right combination of welding temperature, speed, and pressure. Installers may even need to adjust those settings throughout the day. Environmental conditions, like sunlight, wind, and ambient temperature, can all affect weld quality.

If the installer doesn’t follow the recommended installation procedures, it can result in cold welds. The weakened seams can ultimately compromise your roof’s lifespan.

To echo the International Institute of Building Enclosure Consultants (IIBEC) recommendations: Installers should make test welds before production welding begins, and then examine the completed seams to verify that proper fusion has been achieved.

Ponding Water

TPO itself is highly resistant to standing water. The bigger concern is when ponding occurs over a puncture, tear, failed seam, or another opening in the membrane.

Constant moisture concentrated in one area can eventually find its way beneath the TPO, saturate the insulation, and damage other components of the roof assembly.

Ponding water also adds weight to the roof, which can contribute to sagging of the roof deck. That can deepen the low spot and allow even more water to collect there the next time it rains or snow melts.

Flat roofs, despite the name, are generally designed with a minimum slope to direct water toward drainage points. At Avail, proper drainage is an integral part of what we assess when installing and inspecting TPO roofs. Keeping water moving off the roof helps prevent persistent ponding from becoming one of the factors that cuts the roof’s service life short.

Climate and Weather Exposure

TPO’s white reflective surface helps reflect much of the sun’s energy, which is why white TPO is commonly referred to as a “cool roof”. The membrane itself is also formulated with UV stabilizers, antioxidants, and other weathering additives that help protect it against long-term exposure to sunlight and heat.

But even with those protections, years of UV exposure and high rooftop temperatures gradually age the membrane and wear away the protective TPO layer.

If enough of that weathering layer is lost, the scrim can eventually become exposed, compromising the membrane’s ability to keep the roof weathertight.

In this respect, climate can influence how quickly a TPO roof weathers. Theoretically, a roof installed in a state with more intense UV exposure and higher rooftop temperatures, such as Utah or Arizona, would generally be expected to weather faster than one in a milder northern climate like Washington.

How to Make a TPO Roof Last Longer

Have Your TPO Roof Inspected Regularly

A good TPO maintenance routine starts with regular roof inspections. Twice a year is a good rule of thumb. An inspection in spring can catch damage left behind by snow and freeze-thaw cycles, while another in fall gives you time to address problems before winter returns.

On top of those regular inspections, you should also have your roof checked after severe hailstorms or particularly strong winds.

All in all, a TPO roof inspection should include:

• Checking for punctures and tears and repairing minor damage with a compatible heat-welded TPO patch.
• Inspecting heat-welded seams for separation, openings, or other signs that the weld is beginning to fail.
• Looking for surface deterioration, including cracking, erosion, or areas where the reinforcing scrim is becoming exposed.
• Checking roof flashing and penetrations for damage or openings where water could enter.
• Inspecting drains, scuppers, and gutters and clearing away leaves, branches, or other debris that could obstruct drainage and contribute to ponding water.

Limit Foot Traffic and Use Walkway Pads

Keep foot traffic on your TPO roof to a minimum by limiting access to necessary inspections, maintenance, and equipment servicing. You can also consider installing compatible TPO walkway pads. These can serve as a designated route to frequently accessed areas, keeping people from walking directly on the exposed membrane.

Trim Overhanging Branches

A falling branch can puncture or tear the membrane, particularly if it’s large or high enough to hit the roof with force.

And, as discussed earlier, overhanging trees can also continually drop leaves, twigs, and other debris onto the roof and contribute to ponding water problems.

Either way, it can cut a TPO roof’s service life short.

If you can already see branches extending over the roof, have them trimmed back as soon as you can. Don’t wait until they’re touching the membrane or posing a more immediate risk.

Consider a Reflective Roof Coating

As your TPO roof gets older, a reflective roof coating may help extend its service life without replacing the entire membrane. These are liquid-applied products, commonly made from silicone or acrylic elastomers, that cure into a continuous protective layer over the existing TPO.

Do note that this only applies when your existing roof is still in suitable condition for coating.

It should first be inspected for trapped moisture, damaged insulation, and other underlying problems. Applying a coating without addressing these problems first would be useless, as you’d simply be covering up the problem rather than fixing it.

Should I Replace My TPO Roof?

You should consider replacing your TPO roof when the membrane or underlying roof system has deteriorated to the point that repairs are becoming frequent. Common signs include:

• Widespread cracking: Cracking across large sections of the membrane or erosion that has exposed the reinforcing scrim means much of the TPO’s protective weathering layer has already been lost.
• Widespread blistering: Roof blisters form when areas of the TPO membrane lift or separate from the material beneath them, sometimes because of trapped moisture or air within the roof assembly.
• Multiple seam failures: If you find a handful of separated seams, you’re no longer dealing with a localized problem. This can point to an aging membrane that’s losing its ability to hold proper welds.
• Recurring roof leaks: When leaks keep returning or appear in multiple locations despite previous repairs, water may already be entering through several areas. Moisture may have also spread into the insulation beneath the TPO.
• Extensive damage from hail or wind: Severe storms can sometimes leave widespread punctures, tears, or other membrane damage. In these cases, replacement may be more practical, although that ultimately depends on the extent of the damage found during the roof inspection.

Need Professional Flat Roof Installation in Utah?

Whether you’re replacing an aging TPO roof or installing a new flat roof from scratch, you want a roof that’s built to stand the test of time and keep you happy and dry.

Avail provides professional flat roof installation for homes across Utah, with code-compliant installation and an end-to-end process that keeps the project hands-off for customers.

Request a personalized quote today or book a call with Avail to discuss what your roof needs and the best way forward.

If you are someone who’s handy around the house, seeing something broken almost instinctively makes you want to roll up your sleeves and fix it yourself. A roof that’s taken a beating is no different. But before you grab that ladder and get straight to work, there’s something you can’t see that could stop the project before it even begins: permits. And yes, for full roof replacements and many other roofing projects, they’re often a legal requirement. Ahead, I’ll walk you through when you need a roofing permit, how to apply for one, what it costs, and what homeowners should know before replacing their own roof.

Do I Need a Permit to Replace My Roof Myself?

Yes, in most cases, you’ll need a building permit if you’re replacing your roof yourself. Whether you do it DIY or hire a roofing contractor, your local building department will require a permit for a full roof replacement or reroof.

For example, Salt Lake City Building Services – the city department responsible for issuing building permits and enforcing construction codes – explicitly lists roof replacements, reroofing, roof repairs, and alterations to the roof structure or design as projects that require a building permit.

As is generally the case with other jurisdictions across Utah, though, the exact application process, permit fees, and inspection requirements can vary from one city or county to another.

A permit allows your local building authority to verify that the proposed roof replacement meets safety and building code requirements, particularly those related to water intrusion, wind resistance, and snow loads.

The good news is that you don’t necessarily have to handle the permitting process yourself, as most roofing contractors take care of it from start to finish, including the paperwork and required inspections. At Avail Solar, that’s one less thing our homeowners have to worry about.

What Does a Roofing Permit Cover?

While the specifics can vary by jurisdiction, a roofing permit generally covers the following scope of work, all of which may be subject to inspection by your local building department for compliance with the building code:

• Removing and replacing the existing roof: Includes tearing off the old roofing materials and installing a new roofing system, whether it’s asphalt shingles, metal roofing, tile, or another approved roofing material.

• Replacing damaged roof decking: If deteriorated or water-damaged roof sheathing is discovered after the old roof is removed, replacing those sections is generally considered part of the permitted roofing work.

• Installing roofing components: Includes components such as underlayment, flashing, drip edge, roof ventilation, and ice and water barriers where required.

• Minor repairs directly related to the roof replacement: Limited repairs that are necessary to complete the installation, such as replacing rotten fascia boards or repairing sections immediately beneath the roofing system.

Work involving major structural alterations, such as a new roof pitch, modified trusses or rafters, or additional roof structures, goes beyond the scope of a standard roofing permit. Prepare for additional plan reviews, engineering approval, or other permits before construction can begin.

What Happens If I Don’t Get a Permit?

Unpermitted roofing work can come to a building department’s attention in several ways. A neighbor might report the project, or an inspector may notice it while visiting your property for another permitted project.

It may also come to light years later when you apply for a new permit and the department discovers the roof replacement was never approved.

Your Project Could Be Stopped

If the work is discovered while it’s still underway, the building official may issue a stop-work order, requiring all roofing work to stop until the permitting issue is resolved.

In some cases, you may also need to obtain a permit after the work has already been completed (often called an after-the-fact or retroactive permit), pay additional fees, or expose portions of the completed roof so inspectors can verify code compliance if it can’t otherwise be confirmed.

It Could Affect Your Homeowner’s Insurance

A missing permit doesn’t automatically mean your homeowner’s insurance claim will be denied. However, it can become an issue if a future claim involves roofing work that was completed without the required permits or doesn’t comply with applicable building codes.

For example, if your roof fails during a windstorm and the insurer determines the damage was caused, or made worse, by improper installation rather than the covered weather event itself, the permit history and code compliance may become part of the claim review.

That can make the claims process more complicated. Additional inspections, documentation, or other reviews may be required, potentially delaying your claim. And depending on the findings and the terms of your policy, it could also reduce or even eliminate your coverage.

It Could Complicate Selling Your Home

If a buyer discovers during due diligence that the roof replacement wasn’t properly permitted, it can quickly become a sticking point. Some buyers may want the issue resolved before closing, while others may negotiate the price or even walk away from the transaction if they’re uncomfortable taking on the risk.

How to Get a Permit for Roof Replacement

Step 1: Complete a Building Permit Application

This can be done through your local building department, either online through its website or in person. You’ll be asked to provide information such as:

• The property address
• A description of the roofing work
• The roofing material you’ll be installing
• The estimated project value or cost
• Your contact information
• An Owner/Builder Certification or affidavit, acknowledging that you’ll supervise the work and comply with applicable building codes and owner-builder requirements.

Step 2: Submit Any Required Supporting Documents

Along with the application, your building department may ask for supporting documentation depending on the scope of your project. This can include:

• Manufacturer installation specifications for the roofing products being installed
• A roof sketch, reroof worksheet, or basic roof plan
• Product documentation or evaluation reports (where required) for the roofing materials
• Structural or engineering plans if the project involves structural modifications rather than a standard roof replacement

Step 3:Pay the Permit Fee

Once your application has been reviewed, you’ll need to pay the applicable permit fee before the permit is issued. Depending on the jurisdiction, permit fees may be charged as a fixed amount or calculated based on the scope or value of the roofing project.

The building department will calculate the applicable fee and let you know the exact amount before issuing the permit. If you’d like to estimate the cost beforehand, you can also check your local building department’s fee schedule online or contact the department directly.

Step 4: Complete the Required Inspections

Roofing permits typically involve one or more inspections to verify that the work complies with the applicable building code. You’ll need to schedule the required inspections, which may take place while work is underway, after the existing roofing has been removed (if required), or once the roof replacement is complete.

If everything passes, the building department can sign off on the work and close the permit. If the inspector identifies any deficiencies, you’ll be required to correct them and schedule a reinspection before the permit can be finalized.

Do Permit Rules Change Across Utah?

While Utah follows the 2021 Utah State Residential Code, each city or county administers its own permitting process. That means permit fees, application forms, supporting documents, inspection procedures, and processing times can vary depending on where you live.

We recommend checking your local building department’s website for the latest permit requirements before starting your roof replacement project.

Asphalt shingles remain the most popular roofing material for homes across the U.S. since they’re relatively affordable, easy to install, and can last for decades. Of course, years of hail, wind, rain, and everyday weathering eventually take their toll. Sooner or later, full replacement becomes inevitable. If you’ve reached that stage, one of the first questions is usually, “How much will it cost?” This guide walks you through typical asphalt shingle roof replacement costs and the factors that influence the final price, so you’ll know what to expect before planning your budget or requesting a quote.

How Much Does Asphalt Shingle Roof Replacement Cost?

An asphalt shingle roof replacement costs between $7,000 and $21,000 for a 1,700-square-foot roof (roughly the size covering an average U.S. home). That works out to roughly $4.25 to $12.25 per square foot.

Those estimates cover the entire roof replacement project, accounting for both materials and professional installation.

You might wonder, why is the price gap so big? The final price depends on several job-specific factors, from the roof’s design to the materials you choose.

For example, choosing premium asphalt shingles for added durability or curb appeal will generally cost more than installing standard architectural shingles.

Likewise, homes with steep roof pitches, multiple valleys, dormers, skylights, or chimneys require more time and labor, which can also increase the overall price.

We’ll cover the many factors that affect roof replacement costs later. As a general guide, here’s how the total cost of an asphalt shingle roof replacement is typically broken down:

• Materials (35–45%): Asphalt shingles, underlayment, ice and water barrier, flashing, ventilation, fasteners, and other roofing components.
• Labor (40–50%): Removing the existing roof, preparing the roof deck, installing the new roofing system, and performing the final cleanup.
• Disposal and cleanup (3–8%): Dumpster rental, hauling away old roofing materials, recycling where applicable, and landfill disposal fees.
• Permits, inspections, and warranties (5–10%): Permit fees where required, inspections, workmanship warranties, and other project-related administrative costs.

One thing that’s not typically included in these estimates is structural repairs discovered after the existing roof is removed.

For example, if we find sections of roof decking that have deteriorated because of moisture or age, we strongly recommend replacing them before the new shingles go on. That will add to the overall project cost.

Asphalt Shingle Roof Replacement Cost by Roof Area

The larger your roof, the more your asphalt shingle roof replacement will cost. Using the average installed cost of $4.25 to $12.25 per square foot, here’s a general idea of what you can expect to pay based on your roof’s size

A roof leak can reach a point where repairs simply aren’t enough to keep it under control. It’s a situation I’ve seen on more than a few roofs over the years, where the roof flashing had already failed beyond repair and a full replacement was the only lasting solution. One of the first questions that comes up is: How much does a roof flashing replacement cost? If you’re wondering the same thing, this guide walks you through realistic price ranges, what influences the final cost, and what you can expect before requesting a quote.

What Conditions Make Roof Flashing Replacement Necessary?

Below are typical situations that warrant a roof flashing replacement:

• Severe corrosion or rusting: Metal flashing that has thinned out, flaked, or developed holes can no longer keep water out, especially during heavy rain.
• Cracked, bent, or warped sections: Physical deformation, often caused by years of expansion and contraction or poor installation, breaks the watertight seal between the flashing and surrounding roofing materials.
• Missing flashing components: Sections that have blown off during strong winds or severe weather, or worse, were never installed in the first place, leave exposed gaps where water can easily enter.
• Improper original installation: Misaligned layering, incorrect fastening, poor integration with shingles, or failure to follow the proper flashing sequence or manufacturer guidelines can all lead to recurring leaks that repairs alone cannot fully resolve.
• Extensive water damage around the area: Once moisture has reached the roof decking or other structural components, replacing the flashing is often necessary to address the root of the problem rather than just the symptoms.

Now, why does all of this matter? Because not every roof flashing problem calls for a full replacement.

Minor issues like loose or lifted edges, worn sealant, and small cracks or holes don’t necessarily mean the flashing itself has failed. If the existing flashing is still structurally sound, it can often be reused, in which case a simple (and less costly) roof flashing repair is all that’s needed.

However, if a roof flashing inspection shows that the damage has progressed to the more serious issues we discussed earlier, a simple patch won’t be enough.

A full roof flashing replacement becomes necessary, which typically involves the removal and reinstallation of surrounding roofing materials and, at times, even replacing sections of damaged roof decking. The work becomes far more labor-intensive, and with that comes a higher replacement cost.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace Flashing on Roof?

A roof flashing replacement typically costs anywhere from $300 to $1,500. For larger roofs or homes with more complex rooflines, expect the price to climb up to $3,000 or even more.

Note that these are simply ballpark figures. The cost can vary from home to home, influenced by factors such as where the flashing is located, the material used, and other project-specific considerations.

Cost of roof flashing replacement by flashing type

There are several types of roof flashing, most of which are named after where they’re installed on the roof. Since each location comes with its own installation challenges and level of complexity, the scope of work can vary quite a bit, and so can the cost. Here’s a general idea of what you can expect:

Years of inspecting roofs across Utah have shown me one thing: Many roof leaks ultimately trace back to failed roof flashing. That’s no coincidence. Roof flashing sits at the roof’s most vulnerable junctions, directing volumes of water away from potential entry points, all while taking a beating from years of sun, snow, wind, and rain. All that’s to say, if you’re dealing with a roof leak, there’s a good chance your flashing deserves a closer look. Whether you’re planning to inspect it yourself or simply want to understand what a professional roof flashing inspection involves, this guide covers everything you need to know, so you can identify problems early and make the right call before they become much bigger repairs.

What Is Roof Flashing?

Roof flashing is sheet metal designed to prevent water intrusion at critical points on a roof where water is most likely to accumulate and leak into the interior.

This includes areas around protrusions like chimneys, vents, and skylights, as well as where the roof meets a vertical wall or where two roof slopes meet, such as roof valleys.

Why Roof Flashing Matters

Properly installed and maintained roof flashing, whether made of galvanized steel, lead, or copper, effectively directs water away from the vulnerable areas mentioned above. It helps protect the roof decking, insulation, and interior finishes from water damage.

Whereas damaged flashing – or worse, flashing that’s missing altogether – allows water to enter through penetrations and transitions with ease. This can cause all kinds of trouble, from water stains on ceilings and walls to rotting roof components.

When left unattended for weeks or months, the affected areas become all the more exposed to the relentless effects of heat, cold, and rain, damaging the metal further. And trust me, nothing feels more expensive than a repair that could’ve been prevented!

But the more serious issue isn’t the flashing itself. It’s what happens after it fails.

Water can make its way into your home, where it can rot structural components and compromise your home’s integrity. Worse still, trapped moisture creates the perfect environment for mold growth, exposing you and your family to legitimate health risks.

Common Types of Roof Flashing

The more architectural complexity a home has, the more roof flashing points it typically requires. That also means there are more types of roof flashing to account for.

Knowing these different types makes it easier to understand where flashing is typically installed and, in turn, easier to spot where a problem might be coming from, or at least narrow it down before a small issue spreads further.

The most common types of roof flashing are as follows:

• Chimney flashing: Installed at the base of a chimney where it meets the roof. This is usually a combination of step flashing along the sides and a larger apron at the front.
• Counter flashing: This sits on top of base flashing, often embedded into the chimney masonry or wall, and overlaps the lower flashing to seal the joint. You’ll typically see this layered setup around chimneys or brick walls, where it acts as a second line of defense against water intrusion.
• Sidewall flashing: Found where a sloped roof meets a vertical wall, this type runs along the edge in sections, often stepped in with shingles. It’s commonly located along dormers or second-story walls that connect directly to the roof.
• Kickout flashing: Positioned at the bottom end of a sidewall where the roof slope meets a wall. This small but critical piece directs water away into the gutter instead of letting it run down the wall. It’s usually tucked near the roof edge where that wall connection ends.
• Drip edge flashing: Installed along the edges of the roof, particularly at the eaves and rakes, this thin metal strip helps guide water into the gutters and prevents it from seeping underneath shingles. As such, you’ll find it lining the perimeter of your roof.
• Transition flashing: Used where two different roof slopes or sections meet, essentially “bridging” the change in pitch.

Residential Roof Flashing Inspection Process

Now that you’ve got a clear picture of the different types of flashing and where they’re typically located, you’re in a position to carry out a basic roof flashing inspection on your own. If you’re simply curious how professionals approach it, the process I’m about to share reflects the general approach used by the Avail Solar team. That way, you’ll know what to expect.

Essentially, the main goal is to trace where water could be entering and how it’s moving through your roof system. Since a complete inspection is already being carried out, might as well use the opportunity to check the rest of the roof for issues that could become bigger problems later on.

Interior Check

The most obvious signs of a leak show up from inside your home. Look for water stains on ceilings or upper walls, near corners, or chimneys. Other signs include yellowish rings, dark patches, or peeling paint.

If you have attic access, check for damp insulation or dark spots. If what was once a clean, fresh attic has already developed a musty smell, that’s also a telltale sign of moisture intrusion that shouldn’t be ignored.

Ground-Level Exterior Check

Move outside and walk around the perimeter of your home. Pay special attention to drip edge flashing along the roof perimeter, or sections where the roof meets a wall, which may indicate sidewall or kickout flashing. Then, note any staining or water marks on exterior walls.

At this point, you’ll already have narrowed down problem zones safely from the ground without taking on the risk of climbing up.

Roof Penetrations, Wall Terminations, and Valleys

These locations are where most flashing failures occur, simply because they’re the most exposed to water and weather elements. Getting up on the roof for a closer inspection is necessary.

• Roof penetrations: These include chimneys, skylights, vent pipes, and any object that cuts through the roof surface. Check for small gaps where the flashing meets the structure, lifted edges, or cracked sealant that has dried out over time. Around chimneys in particular, inspect both the base flashing and counter flashing, since these layered components must overlap correctly to keep water out.
• Wall terminations: These are areas where the roof meets a vertical wall, often protected by sidewall flashing and kickout flashing. Look for sections where flashing has pulled away from the wall or shifted out of place. Streaks or staining running down the wall below are often a sign that water is slipping behind the flashing instead of being diverted away.
• Valleys: Roof valleys naturally collect and channel large volumes of water during rain, making them especially vulnerable if flashing is compromised. Check for debris buildup, visible corrosion, or gaps along the valley flashing.

Word of advice: These critical areas are not easy or safe to inspect closely without proper equipment. If you’re uncomfortable with heights or don’t have the right safety equipment, make sure to call a roof inspection expert instead.

Assessment and Next Steps

This stage is meant to determine what level of action is needed based on the signs you’ve identified.

Is the issue isolated or minor, and therefore something that can be addressed with a straightforward repair? Or are there more widespread problems that point toward a full flashing replacement? At the same time, it’s also possible that no immediate action is needed, as in the case of natural surface wear and tear.

How Often Should Roof Flashing Be Inspected?

You should have your roof flashing inspected at least once a year. For Utah homeowners specifically, it’s best to have it done in the fall. It goes without saying that Utah winters have a way of putting every roof to the test.

If your roof is over 15 years old, consider inspections more than once a year. The existing flashing and sealants are likely to have deteriorated with age.

Regardless of your inspection schedule, it’s highly recommended to have your roof checked after major weather events like hailstorms or severe windstorms. It’s often after these events that roof flashing becomes displaced or damaged. The same goes before buying or selling a home, when hidden roofing issues can easily become costly surprises.

Should I do a roof flashing inspection myself or call a professional?

From our discussion of the roof flashing inspection process earlier, there are definitely parts of the inspection you can do safely yourself, such as checking for interior signs of leaks or carrying out a basic visual inspection from the ground. If you’re keen on inspecting the roof yourself and feel confident doing so, there’s no reason you shouldn’t.

However, like most homeowners, if you don’t have the skills, confidence, or the right equipment, it’s best to call a professional instead.

In either case, a roofing professional doesn’t just take the risk off your shoulders. Years of inspecting roofs means they can often tell at a glance which issues need attention today and which seemingly harmless areas are likely to become problems later on.

That’s the kind of foresight that’s hard to get from a DIY inspection alone, and it can save you a lot of money, inconvenience, and repeat repairs down the road.

How much does a professional roof flashing inspection cost?

Most homeowners don’t actually pay separately for a roof flashing inspection. In fact, it’s usually bundled into a larger service like a comprehensive roof inspection or roof flashing repair service, so it effectively comes at no additional cost.

If all you’re after is a flashing inspection itself, expect the price to vary. Every roofing company has its own pricing, and the final cost often comes down to the specifics of the job.

What’s the Next Step After a Roof Flashing Inspection?

Once you’ve completed the inspection, it usually comes down to one of two paths: repair the flashing or replace it altogether. Which one makes the most sense depends on the extent of the damage.

A roof flashing repair is usually the right choice when:

• The damage is isolated (e.g. small gaps, minor lifting, or localized damage).
• The sealant has failed.
• The flashing is still in good shape despite some minor rust or warping.

On the other hand, roof flashing replacement is often the better option when:

• The metal has deteriorated through widespread rust, corrosion, or weakening.
• Sections are missing or were installed incorrectly.
• Leaks keep coming back despite repeated repairs to the same area.

Naturally, roof flashing replacement comes at a higher cost than a repair. If that’s what your inspection points to, check out our guide on roof flashing replacement cost to get a better idea of what to expect.

Need a Professional Roof Flashing Inspection and Repair in Utah?

Avail Solar is a roofing company trusted by homeowners and businesses across Salt Lake City, Murray, and throughout Utah. Whether it’s a roof inspection, roof flashing repair, or roof flashing replacement, our goal is simple: find the problem, fix it properly, and keep it from coming back.

Schedule a call or request a personalized quote today!

There are homeowners paying more for electricity than they need to – not because they’re using more power, but because they’re using it at the wrong times. Yes, when you use electricity can absolutely affect what ultimately ends up on your electric bill. That’s because of something called a Time-of-Use (TOU) rate plan, where electricity prices change depending on the time of day. This is where concepts like peak and off peak times come into play and can mean the difference between maximizing your savings or leaving hundreds of dollars on the table each year. In this guide, I’ll walk you through what peak and off peak electricity hours are, why utility companies use them, and how you can take advantage of them to lower your electricity costs.

What are Peak and Off Peak Hours?

Peak and off peak hours are time periods tied to what’s called a Time-of-Use (TOU) rate plan, wherein the price one pays for electricity changes depending on the time of day.

We’ll explore why such a billing structure exists in more detail later. But for the most part, the reason revolves around how utilities have to balance electricity supply and demand, considering how electricity consumption fluctuates throughout the day and, in many cases, across seasons as well.

On the consumer side, it gives homeowners a way to control their electricity costs, not necessarily by using less energy, but by using it strategically at the ‘right’ times.

What are Peak Electricity Hours?

Peak electricity hours are the times of day when demand for power is at its highest – and because of that, they’re also the most expensive.

According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration, electricity demand typically reaches its highest levels during the late afternoon and early evening, especially during the hot summer months.

If you’ve Googled “how to fix a leaky flat roof”, chances are you already know the struggle. One page talks about one situation, another dives into something completely different, and half the time it’s not even what you were looking for. By the end, you’ve wasted precious time – all while dealing with the headache of a leaking flat roof. That’s exactly why I put this guide together. I’ve aimed to cover everything you need to know about fixing a leaky flat roof, whether you’re looking for a temporary patch or a permanent solution, and whether your roof is EPDM, TPO, PVC, or another type. Let’s get into it.

Signs Your Flat Roof Is Leaking

When we think of leaks, most of us picture water that’s dripping inside the home. Reality is, there are earlier signs of water intrusion you can spot long before the dripping starts, and catching these early can save you thousands in structural repairs – or even prevent a full-scale rebuild.

Water Stains on Ceilings or Walls

Yellow, brown or dark patches showing up on surfaces are often signs of flat roof leaking through ceiling or walls. Ignore it for too long, and those patches darken, spread wider, and cause further damage.

Dripping or Moisture Sounds

This is one of the most obvious signs that you’ll usually notice during or right after heavy rainfall. You might hear dripping above ceilings, inside walls, or even in attic spaces.

Mold, Musty Odors or Rotting Materials

Mold and mildew usually appear behind walls. On the inside, they come in the form of peeling paint or wallpaper. Either way, they’re not hard to miss given their earthy, stale, or damp smell. All of these usually hint at longer-term leaks that have gone unnoticed.

Sagging or Damp Attic/Ceiling

A ceiling that dips, bulges, or feels spongy is a big warning sign that means water has overloaded the materials, or worse, weakened them after being soaked for too long.

That makes it more than just an aesthetic issue. It’s now a structural problem. This usually affects drywall, plaster, or ceiling tiles, and is often accompanied by discoloration, rotting wood, or damp insulation.

Blistering, Bubbling or Cracking Membrane

Flat roof blistering, something I’ve discussed in depth in another article, happens when air or moisture gets trapped between roofing layers. While sometimes cosmetic, it can also point to something more serious, especially if the blisters have grown, cracked, or popped.

Once that happens, the roof’s inner layers are exposed, making it easier for water to penetrate and cause damage below

Common Causes of Flat Roof Leaks

Here’s a thought. Why not go straight to fixing the leak once identified? Because fixing a leak without understanding its root problem is like mopping up water while the tap’s still running. And that’s very counterproductive.

By knowing what actually triggers flat roof leaks, you’ll have a clearer idea of whether it’s something you can patch, monitor, or if it calls for professional repair.

Damaged or Aging Roofing Membrane

Flat roof membranes don’t last forever. They degrade over time due to UV exposure and temperature fluctuations, often showing up as cracks, splits, or areas that have turned brittle.

Once the membrane breaks down, water can easily seep in and start damaging the layers beneath, and eventually the inside of your home.

Failed Flashing Around Vents, Skylights, or Chimneys

Flashing is the thin strip of material (usually metal or rubber) that seals joints and edges where the roof meets penetrations like vents, skylights, or chimneys.

However, it does the opposite in cases where it’s corroded, cracked, or completely pulled away over time. Once it fails, these spots become prime entry points for water intrusion and leaks instead.

Ponding Water due to Poor Drainage

Ponding happens when rainwater pools on a flat roof instead of draining off.

Now, a puddle doesn’t automatically mean there’s a leak, but it can be an early warning sign for roof leaks. If left alone, the standing water can speed up membrane degradation, weaken seams, and eventually seep through cracks, penetrations, or failed flashing.

Improper Installation or Poor Workmanship

Failed flashing and ponding water are often the result of improper flat roof installation or poor workmanship.

In fact, when certain materials – like modified bitumen or single-ply membranes – are installed incorrectly, blistering becomes more common. And as I mentioned earlier, blistering can eventually lead to flat roof leaks.

Foot Traffic or Physical Damage

It’s not always the installation itself that’s the culprit. Sometimes, especially on flat roof decks, other activities can cause damage. HVAC units are a common example, as installers may accidentally puncture the membrane while working on equipment.

Even something as simple as dropping a tool can be enough to create a weak spot that lets water in.

Exposure to Weather Extremes

Hail, lightning, and strong winds gradually chip away at roofing materials, accelerating aging and creating breach points in the membrane. That’s why it’s common for older roofs to start leaking after a heavy storm as the elements push already weakened materials past their limit.

How to Find the Source of a Flat Roof Leak

Before you start cutting into blisters or patching holes, it’s crucial to actually find the source of the leak. Otherwise, you’re just treating the symptom, not the cause. Like I said earlier, think of it like mopping up a puddle while the faucet is still running. It doesn’t make sense until you shut off the water first.

Step 1: Find Damage and Leaks Indoors

Start by inspecting for leaks inside your home. Look for water stains on ceilings, beams, rafters, or walls, as well as peeling paint.

Once you spot signs of water damage, measure their distance from fixed points in the room, like a wall, window, or corner. This will help you later as you can match the interior damage and project it upwards to a potential entry point on the roof.

Step 2: Visually Inspect Your Roof

Pay special attention to areas where failure is most common, including flashings, seams, vents, pipes, and collars. Sometimes you’ll need to lean in closer to spot tiny gaps, especially in areas that were patched before, since old repairs can fail.

And while you’re at it, clear away debris like leaves, gravel, or branches, as these can hide blisters, small cracks, or even ponding water that might be the real culprit.

Step 3: Perform a Hose Test

When you have multiple suspect areas, it can be tricky to figure out which one is actually causing the leak. The hose test involves spraying water with a garden hose to simulate rain. Have a helper inside watch for drips while you soak the suspect roof sections.

A variation of the hose test that’s more applicable to flat roof decks is the flood test. This video from Practical Roofing Concepts explains it very well.

Flat roof blistering is one of those issues you don’t usually notice until you’re standing there, looking across your roof, and spotting strange bubbles that don’t look quite right. You freeze for a second and wonder, Is this harmless or is my roof in bigger trouble? In this guide, I’ll walk you through what those roof blisters or bubbles really mean, why they happen, when you should be concerned, and what you can do next, whether you try a small DIY patch or call in a roofing professional.

What is Flat Roof Blistering?

Flat roof blistering, often called roof bubbling, is a defect that shows up as raised, dome-like patches ranging from just a few inches wide to several feet across. They can look soft or bulgy – like a blister or bubble – or sometimes even cracked

It can look like this:

When people ask how much slate roofing costs, most expect a straightforward price per square foot. But as many homeowners later find out, that ballpark figure often doubles or even triples. That’s because the total cost depends on several factors beyond just materials and labor. In this guide, I’ll walk you through a slate roof’s price per square foot, as well as other key factors that influence the total cost. This way, you’ll know exactly what matters before you start planning your budget.

What is the Average Cost of Slate Roof?

The average cost to install a slate roof in the U.S. ranges from $5 to $30 per square foot or $500 to $3,000 per square (100 sq. ft). This means on a standard 2,000-square-foot roof, you can expect to pay somewhere between $10,000 and $60,000, with both material and labor accounted for already.

The difference between the upper and lower limits might come as a surprise, but that happens since several factors can push the price higher or lower. For example, the type of slate you choose, the complexity of your roof, and its current condition all play a role (more on this later).

So, is this expensive? Is the price justifiable? Homeowners will have different opinions on that, but to help you decide for yourself, the next sections will show how slate roofing prices vary by slate type, how they fare against other roofing materials, and how labor costs factor into the total price.

Slate Roofing Cost by Slate Type

The table below lists the three main types of slate roofing, along with their characteristics and average cost. 

Ever looked at a neighbor’s roof and thought, “How much energy are those solar panels actually producing – and would I get the same results if I installed the same setup?” That’s the kind of question I often hear from homeowners who want real numbers before making a big investment like solar. And it’s a smart one to ask, because even if you and your neighbor installed the same number of panels, your results could turn out completely different. In this guide, I’ll show you how much energy solar panels produce per day on average, explain the key factors that cause those numbers to vary from home to home, and walk you through how to calculate your own system’s daily output.

How Much Energy Do Solar Panels Produce Per Day On Average?

On average, a typical residential solar panel system in the U.S. produces about 25 to 40 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per day. 

Here’s how that number comes together:

• Most U.S. homes that want to fully power their home with solar energy install around 15 to 20 solar panels.
• A single residential solar panel today can produce up to 400 watts (or 0.4 kW), which is typical for newer, high-efficiency models.
• These panels operate best under peak sunlight, which averages 3 to 5 hours per day in many U.S. states.

Doing the math with those assumptions in mind:

• 20 panels × 0.4 kW each = 8 kW system
• 8 kW × 5 sun hours = 40 kWh per day

That’s how we arrive at that upper range. 

For a smaller 5-kW system with 12–14 panels, expect closer to 20 to 25 kWh per day.

As you can see from the calculation, a lot of factors come into play. A slight adjustment in our assumptions led to very different outcomes – just look at the gap between the upper and lower range. All that makes it hard to pin an exact number for how much solar panels produce daily.

So if you really want to answer this question for yourself, you’ll need to look at your own circumstances and lock in a set of assumptions that actually apply to you. And to help you make solid assumptions, I’ve broken down the key factors one by one in the next section.

Factors That Affect Daily Solar Panel Production

Solar Irradiance

Solar irradiance, or peak sun hours, is the amount of sunlight your panels receive in a day. More specifically, it’s how many hours the sunlight is strong enough to power your system at full output.

This is one of the biggest drivers of how much energy your panels can generate on any given day.

Sun hours depend heavily on where you live. For example, sunny states like Arizona or California can receive around 5 to 6 peak sun hours daily. Meanwhile, states like New York or Michigan only get around 4 hours