Category: Solar 101

Ever looked at a neighbor’s roof and thought, “How much energy are those solar panels actually producing – and would I get the same results if I installed the same setup?” That’s the kind of question I often hear from homeowners who want real numbers before making a big investment like solar. And it’s a smart one to ask, because even if you and your neighbor installed the same number of panels, your results could turn out completely different. In this guide, I’ll show you how much energy solar panels produce per day on average, explain the key factors that cause those numbers to vary from home to home, and walk you through how to calculate your own system’s daily output.

How Much Energy Do Solar Panels Produce Per Day On Average?

On average, a typical residential solar panel system in the U.S. produces about 25 to 40 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity per day. 

Here’s how that number comes together:

• Most U.S. homes that want to fully power their home with solar energy install around 15 to 20 solar panels.
• A single residential solar panel today can produce up to 400 watts (or 0.4 kW), which is typical for newer, high-efficiency models.
• These panels operate best under peak sunlight, which averages 3 to 5 hours per day in many U.S. states.

Doing the math with those assumptions in mind:

• 20 panels × 0.4 kW each = 8 kW system
• 8 kW × 5 sun hours = 40 kWh per day

That’s how we arrive at that upper range. 

For a smaller 5-kW system with 12–14 panels, expect closer to 20 to 25 kWh per day.

As you can see from the calculation, a lot of factors come into play. A slight adjustment in our assumptions led to very different outcomes – just look at the gap between the upper and lower range. All that makes it hard to pin an exact number for how much solar panels produce daily.

So if you really want to answer this question for yourself, you’ll need to look at your own circumstances and lock in a set of assumptions that actually apply to you. And to help you make solid assumptions, I’ve broken down the key factors one by one in the next section.

Factors That Affect Daily Solar Panel Production

Solar Irradiance

Solar irradiance, or peak sun hours, is the amount of sunlight your panels receive in a day. More specifically, it’s how many hours the sunlight is strong enough to power your system at full output.

This is one of the biggest drivers of how much energy your panels can generate on any given day.

Sun hours depend heavily on where you live. For example, sunny states like Arizona or California can receive around 5 to 6 peak sun hours daily. Meanwhile, states like New York or Michigan only get around 4 hours

Especially for homeowners who are new to solar, there’s often this idea that once panels are installed, the electric bill disappears. Here’s the spoiler: You’ll still get a bill. But if you’re thinking that because you’re expecting big savings, you’re not wrong either. After years in residential solar and installing systems for hundreds of homeowners across the U.S., I’ve come to realize the real question on most people’s minds is this: How does the electric bill actually change after going solar? Read further as I show you the different ways solar panels can affect your electric bill and address related FAQs, so you’re not left scratching your head once your first post-solar bill lands in your inbox.

What Your Electric Bill Can Look Like After Installing Solar

Installing grid-tied solar panels often results in a lower bill. Other times, it ends up being zero or even negative, which is the ideal scenario. In a few cases, though, it doesn’t change much at all.

In large part, this shift happens because of net metering, a billing arrangement that tracks how much electricity you pull from the grid versus how much excess your panels send back.

That’s to say your electricity still flows through the same meter, but your bill gets calculated a bit differently.

Solar panels power your home first, and if there’s extra, it flows back to the grid. When your panels can’t meet your needs, your home pulls from the grid like usual. At the end of the billing cycle, your utility looks at how much you took versus how much you gave. That net difference is what shows up on your bill.

Let’s explore further each of the three scenarios mentioned.

Solar Panels Can Reduce Your Electric Bill

The most common outcome you can expect after going solar – and this is true for solar homes Avail Solar has serviced in Utah – is a noticeably lower electric bill. This happens when your solar panels are designed to cover only a portion of your monthly energy, something we call a partial offset.

Say before going solar, your monthly electric use averaged 900 kWh, and you paid about $0.16 per kWh. That would make your bill roughly $144 each month.

After you’ve installed solar panels designed to generate around 600 kWh per month:

• Your home still needs 900 kWh total.
• 600 kWh comes from your solar.
• The remaining 300 kWh comes from the grid.
• At the same $0.16/kWh utility rate, your bill now drops to $48 (plus any fixed utility fees).

That’s a $96 before-and-after difference, all from partial offset.

Of course, the ideal situation would be to have a system that fully offsets your usage, but that’s not always possible.

Some homeowners have limits on roof space or yard space, which affects how many panels we can install. Others, meanwhile, start with a smaller setup intentionally to avoid maxing out their budget. 

Solar Panels Can Fully Eliminate Your Electric Bill

A zero or negative electric bill is an outcome resulting from a sufficiently sized or slightly oversized solar panel system. This is also often the case in homes where:

• Energy usage is low, or the home uses energy-efficient appliances
• Battery storage is installed, allowing the home to store excess solar energy for use during nighttime or high-rate periods instead of pulling from the grid

A zero bill happens when your solar system produces enough energy over the billing period to fully offset what you used from the grid. In other words, your grid import matches your solar export one-to-one, resulting in a zero net usage. Your utility may then issue a bill showing $0 due (though some fixed charges may still apply but more on that later).

This is possible, but very rare. What can happen more often is a negative bill, which means you exported or sent more electricity to the grid than you used. That extra energy turns into a credit, which can come in a few forms:

• kWh credits that roll over to future months (used to offset usage later)
• Dollar credits that also roll over, or in some cases, the utility may issue a payout once the credit reaches a certain threshold ($50 in the case of Xcel Energy in New Mexico) 

Let’s look at an example.

Say your monthly electricity use averages 800 kWh, and your system is designed to produce 950 kWh in that same period. 

If you use 500 kWh during the day (when your solar is producing) and export the other 450 kWh to the grid, but only import 350 kWh at night, you end up with a net export of 100 kWh – or an equivalent of $16 in bill credit (if utility rates are at $0.16/kWh).

Solar Panels May Not Always Lower Your Electric Bill

As confusing as it sounds, yes, it can happen, and it often has less to do with your solar system’s size and more with how your utility handles solar:

Your utility doesn’t support net metering

Some municipal utilities or electric co-ops don’t offer any form of net metering. In these cases, even if your system exports excess energy to the grid, it doesn’t get credited toward your bill.

Since there’s no mechanism to turn those exports into solar savings, your electric bill ends up looking unchanged.

Your utility follows a non-traditional solar billing model

Some utilities run under different billing structures that don’t visibly reduce your monthly usage charges. Take Austin Energy’s “buy-all, sell-all”, under their Value of Solar (VoS) program.

Under this model, you buy all your electricity from the grid at full retail rates and sell your solar generation back to the utility at a separate fixed rate. So, even if you’re producing a lot of solar power, your utility bill still reflects full usage, and that’s because the credits come separately.

Your solar panels are not performing as expected

Sometimes your system isn’t generating as much power as projected due to unseen issues like shading from growing trees, unexpected panel degradation, or dirt buildup.

If this happens, you won’t offset as much of your usage as intended, and that can quietly prevent your bill from going down. This is why periodic solar panel cleaning is important, especially if you live in dusty or pollen-heavy areas. 

Factors That Affect Your Electric Bill Savings After Going Solar

Below is a full breakdown of key factors that affect your bill savings. As you read through the list, you may realize we’ve already touched on a few of these earlier.

Solar System Size

Your system’s size sets the ceiling for how much you can save (or earn) from solar. The larger your solar panel system’s output capacity, the less energy you’ll need to pull from the grid. And by simple logic, that can naturally drive utility costs down.

That said, it follows that a smaller or undersized system produces less energy. Yes, it can offset a portion of a household’s consumption and lower your electric bill, just not as much as a properly sized solar system would.

Net Metering

Net metering is one of the biggest reasons many homeowners choose to go solar. It rewards excess generation with bill credits that can help you offset your utility costs, and thus, lower your electric bill over time.

However, there’s a catch: Not all utilities handle these credits the same way, and that can significantly affect your savings.

Here are the three most common types of net metering policies and how each one influences your electric bill:

• True Net Metering: This is the most favorable setup for solar customers. Any excess electricity you send to the grid is credited at the same retail rate you pay for grid electricity. So, 1 kWh exported offsets 1 kWh imported, dollar for dollar. This gives you the most straightforward savings and is what many people think of when they hear “net metering.”
• Net Billing: In this model, the utility tracks your energy exports and imports separately. You still earn bill credits, but they may be worth less than what you pay per kWh. These credits often roll over month to month, but in many cases, any remaining credits are wiped clean at the end of your true-up or annual billing cycle. With that said, this structure subtly discourages overproduction. 
• Instantaneous Netting: Here, every kilowatt-hour you export is compensated immediately, but usually at a lower, fixed rate that changes throughout the day. This means your exports may be worth significantly less than your imports, which reduces how much you can offset.

You can check out the guides I’ve written on how net metering works in Utah and Nevada if that applies to you.

Weather & Seasonal Changes

The sun is the driving force behind solar power, so naturally, anything that blocks or reduces sunlight affects how well your system performs. In that sense, it affects how much you save on your electric bill as well.

Let’s talk about weather first. On rainy or cloudy days, solar panels still work (I previously wrote about this in more detail), but they capture less light, which means lower energy production. Your home will then have to pull more electricity from the grid during extended periods of overcast skies.

The same principle applies to seasonal changes. Winter, for instance, brings shorter days and a lower sun angle, both of which reduce solar output (not to mention snow buildup can temporarily block your panels as well). If your system can’t meet your household demand during this time, your grid usage increases, and so does your bill.

Summer, meanwhile, brings longer daylight hours and more direct sunlight – conditions that allow your panels to reach peak production. You can expect to generate the most energy credits during this season. Any surplus production often helps offset your winter deficits, especially with net metering or net billing in place.

Changes in Electric Consumption Behavior

Even if your solar panels produce a lot of energy, your savings will shrink if your household starts using significantly more electricity than before.

Solar systems are typically sized based on your past energy habits. If those habits change, perhaps you start running your air conditioner more often or forget to turn off appliances, you may find yourself pulling more electricity from the grid.

The same goes should you add any high-consumption upgrades later on, such as an electric vehicle, a hot tub or a heated pool. Unless your system was designed with those upgrades in mind, your solar production won’t be able to cover the additional load.

Utility Charges

Utility charges are the fixed fees that your power company adds to your bill each month, no matter how much electricity you use. These typically include:

• grid connection fees
• meter maintenance charges
• transmission fees
• other service-related costs

Depending on where you live, these fees usually range from $10 to $35 per month. That might not sound like much at first, but over the course of a year, it adds up to $120 to $420. 

And even if your panels completely offset your energy usage, you can’t eliminate or bypass these utility charges unless your home is entirely off-grid, which most homeowners are not.

Solar Panel Performance Issues

When solar panels don’t perform as expected, your system produces less energy, and that diminishes your potential savings. Performance issues can be caused by one or more of these.

• manufacturing defects
• damage from hail or falling debris
• unforeseen obstructions that cause shading (e.g. nearby construction, growing trees, bird droppings, pollen, etc.)

Fortunately, these are things you can track using a solar monitoring app, which is something I often recommend to solar customers. It helps homeowners catch unusual drops in production early, so they can contact the Avail Solar team right away if something looks off.

Will I Still Get an Electric Bill After Installing Solar?

Yes, in most cases, you will still get an electric bill after installing solar. Even if your system is capable of offsetting your entire electric consumption, you’ll still have to pay your utility’s fixed minimum fees, such as meter charges, grid access fees, and taxes, among many others. These fees vary depending on your utility provider, but they usually range from $10 to $35 per month.

Why is My Electric Bill Still High After Installing Solar Panels?

If your electric bill remains high even after going solar, the most likely reasons are:

• A spike in your energy use. Typical examples include using your AC more during the hotter months, charging an electric vehicle that wasn’t part of your original energy plan, or upgrading to high-wattage devices (e.g. water heaters, ovens, etc.)
• Underperformance from your solar system. This can be caused by product defects, storm damage, or unexpected shading. Not to worry, though – some of these issues may be covered by your solar panel warranty or even your home insurance, depending on the situation.

These two areas account for nearly every case where a homeowner feels like their solar savings don’t match what was promised by their solar installers.

How Will My Electric Bill Change If I Add Battery Storage to Solar Panels?

Adding battery storage to your solar system can lower your electric bill by reducing how much electricity you pull from the grid. This becomes even more valuable if you’re on a time-of-use plan, where electricity is more expensive during peak hours (typically from late afternoon to evening).

During the day, your panels power your home and store any extra energy in the battery. At night, when rates are higher, your home draws from the battery instead of the grid.

Does Budget Billing Work with Solar Panels?

Yes, budget billing can still work after going solar, but it may not always be the best choice, especially if you want to see the impact of solar savings immediately. Here’s why. 

If you stay on budget billing after going solar, your monthly payment stays the same, even if your actual usage drops. In reality, your solar credits are offsetting your charges in the background, but that won’t show up in your payment amount until your utility recalculates your budget plan (usually once a year).

That delay can make it harder to see how much your solar setup is actually saving you month to month.

Maximize Electric Bill Savings With the Right Solar Design

There’s one last factor I haven’t mentioned yet, and it’s often the reason why some systems save more than others: Getting your system designed and installed the right way from the very start.

Avail Solar has installed hundreds of home solar systems across Utah, Colorado, and Nevada, and we’ve always believed this: Real solar savings don’t happen by accident but from building systems that analyze past usage, account for local weather patterns and regulations, and are tailored to your actual energy needs and goals.

Request a quote today and see what the right solar design can do for your electric bill.

By the time most people think about how to protect solar panels, damage has already been done. Sure, solar panels are built to last and are often treated as a “set-and-forget” setup. But they’re not indestructible. Every home faces different risks. One might be in a hail-free zone, while another deals with frequent storms or heavy pollen. Those differences can change how vulnerable your system really is. Thankfully, keeping your system protected doesn’t have to be complicated. In this article, I’ll walk you through the key risks, along with simple and practical methods on how to keep your solar panels safe year-round.

Ways to Protect Solar Panels From Damage

Hailstorm Protection

Most solar panels can withstand hail. In fact, I’ve seen homeowners come out of a hailstorm with zero damage to their system, even when their roof took a beating.

However, this doesn’t mean panels are invincible. Hail ranks among the leading causes of severe weather-related insurance claims in the U.S., especially in states like Texas and Nebraska where storms are frequent and intense. Cracks can still happen, especially if hail hits at just the right angle or combines with strong wind.

That said, if you’re in a hail-prone region or just want peace of mind, here’s what you can do:

• Adjust the tilt (if possible). Ground-mounted or tracker panels can sometimes be angled to reduce direct hail impact. But be careful, as adjusting the angle could increase wind exposure. Asking for professional guidance is recommended in this case.
• Use hail nets or shields. These physical barriers can help absorb or deflect hail, especially in places where spring and summer storms are a yearly concern.
• Stay alert during hail season. Follow the weather forecast so you’re not caught off guard.
• Review your insurance policy. Many homeowner policies include hail damage, but make sure to double-check if that’s the case for you. You don’t want to find out the hard way that your coverage falls short.

Lightning Protection

Solar panels themselves don’t attract lightning, but the risk comes from poor grounding. If your system isn’t grounded properly, a single surge can destroy your inverter, damage your wiring, or worse, cause a fire.

In normal circumstances, homeowners don’t have to worry about lightning risks, especially if your system is installed by a licensed professional. Proper grounding and safety measures are built into the installation process and required by electrical codes.

Of course, there’s no harm in confirming this. Ask your installer if a lightning arrestor or any other surge protection device has been included to keep your system safe.

Surge Protection

Surges aren’t just caused by lightning. Grid switching, downed lines, and unstable power in rural or older neighborhoods can also send unexpected voltage spikes through your system.

Your solar panels themselves are not the weak link. It’s the inverter and your home’s sensitive electronics that take the hit.

That’s why surge protection deserves its own attention, even if you already have grounding in place.

To reduce this risk, talk to your installer about adding a surge protection device (SPD).

Type 1 or Type 2 SPDs, installed at your main panel or near your inverter, can help block these voltage spikes before they cause trouble.

And while you’re at it, take a moment to review your insurance policy. Some plans don’t cover surge-related damage unless specific protections are already in place.

Protection from Wildlife

You might not think twice about birds or squirrels when looking at your solar setup, but these critters are one of the sneakiest threats to your system.

They nest under your panels not just for shelter. They also chew wires, leave behind corrosive droppings, and sometimes dislodge panels or racking hardware.

And because these issues build up quietly, many homeowners don’t notice the damage until system performance drops or a major fault is detected. To stay ahead of costly damage, here’s what you can do:

• Install wire mesh or critter guards. These barriers run along the edges of your panel array and block birds or rodents from nesting underneath, while still allowing airflow.
• Watch for early signs of damage. Droppings, scratching noises, or visible nests under your panels are signs you should act quickly.
• Call a professional. Poorly installed mesh protectors (as a result of DIY installation) can trap debris, cause rust, or damage the panel frame itself. Reach out to your installer (or a licensed wildlife control expert, if necessary) for help.

Rain Protection

Rain on its own won’t harm your solar panels. On the contrary, it can be beneficial as it helps rinse away dust, pollen, and other debris that would otherwise block sunlight.

The real risk comes when rainwater pools in areas it shouldn’t. On flat roofs or areas with poor drainage, standing water can slowly corrode wiring, mounts, or other hardware, which can lead to bigger problems over time.

Here’s how to avoid that:

• Install panels at a tilt. Angled panels allow water to slide off naturally rather than collect underneath.
• Keep gutters and downspouts clear. Clogged drainage can cause overflow that may affect nearby solar components.
• Inspect drainage around your system. If water tends to pool in certain areas, ask your installer about possible design adjustments.

Protection From Dust, Dirt, and Debris

Dust, dirt, and debris are three of the most common reasons solar panels underperform, especially in dry areas, near farmland, or close to construction zones.

These elements can form a film that blocks sunlight from reaching the solar cells. That drop in output often goes unnoticed until a spike in your electric bill or a dip in your monitoring app alerts you.

Here’s how to keep your panels clean and clear:

• Clean your panels regularly. For most homes, rinsing once or twice a year with a garden hose is enough to maintain performance. However, homes near farmland, dusty roads, or construction areas may need more frequent cleaning.
• Avoid pressure washers. They can damage seals or crack the glass. For more, see our solar panel cleaning guide.
• Trim nearby trees and vegetation. This helps prevent falling leaves, pollen, and other debris from collecting on or under your panels.

Fire Protection

Fires caused directly by solar panels are rare. In most cases, the real issue is electrical arcing, which tends to start from weak points like poor wiring or loose connections. These flaws can lead to overheating and eventually cause a fire.

Here are a few ways to reduce the risk of fire hazards around your solar system:

• Confirm built-in fire safety features. Ask your installer whether your system includes arc fault detection and rapid shutdown devices. These are now required by most codes and can shut things down before a fault escalates.
• Schedule inspections after major storms. Even if your roof looks fine from the ground, a professional check can catch wiring issues or loose connections that may not be obvious.
• Clear out dry debris. Keep the area beneath and around your panels free of dry leaves, branches, or twigs, especially if you live in a wildfire-prone region.

For further information, make sure to check our guide on solar panel fires.

Flood Protection

Most rooftop panels sit high enough to avoid floodwaters. The concern lies with ground-mounted panels. If not properly sealed or elevated, these components can suffer from short circuits, inverter failure, and long-term corrosion.

If your solar system is in a flood-prone area, here’s how to keep it protected:

• Ask your installer to raise key components above base flood elevation. A professional should make sure your inverter, wiring, and battery aren’t sitting where flood water can easily reach them.
• Confirm enclosure protection. Ask your installer whether the enclosures are rated NEMA 4 or higher, as these are better at keeping water out.
• Request a flood risk assessment. Your installer may recommend relocating vulnerable components or upgrading to more flood-resistant gear based on your property layout.

General Tips for Solar Panel Protection

Some protective habits are worth following no matter what type of threat you’re dealing with. Think of these tips as your solar system’s SOPs to prevent small issues from turning into bigger problems:

• Disconnect solar panels when unused for extended periods. This prevents unnecessary wear on the system and reduces exposure to electrical risks.
• Add your system to your home insurance policy. Most providers allow this at little or no added cost, but you’ll want it in writing.
• Choose certified panels and parts. Standardized, well-rated equipment usually means better protection, easier repairs, and stronger warranties – something a certified solar installer can help you with.
• Schedule a yearly inspection. Check for cracks, loose wiring, corrosion, or dirt buildup. If you’re working with a Solar EPC, they can handle these inspections as part of your routine maintenance plan.
• Avoid experimental coatings or DIY sprays. Panels already use tempered glass, which is stronger than polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) or plastic layers. Adding more may do more harm than good, not just to the panel structure but also to performance.
• Call your installer when in doubt. Keep in mind that some fixes may void your solar warranty or introduce new issues. To be safer, check with a solar professional.

Install Your Home Solar Panels the Right Way

Always remember: No upgrade, fix, or workaround later on will match the reliability of a system that’s been installed properly from the start. A well-installed system runs quietly, performs efficiently, and rarely demands attention beyond routine checks.

And it all comes down to working with a certified solar installer – someone who can design your system to meet both your energy goals and long-term protection standards.

We at Avail Solar have installed home systems for hundreds of confident solar owners across Utah, Nevada, and Colorado. Request a quote today and see how we can help!

Ask any homeowner in Utah what’s stopping them from going solar, and you’ll almost hear the same thing: The upfront cost. And that’s understandably so, especially when that five-figure quote is staring you in the face Fortunately, that’s where Utah solar incentives come in to help you shave thousands off what you’d otherwise shell out. Better yet, most of these benefits stack, meaning you’re not just relying on one discount, but layering several together to make solar way more affordable than it looks at first glance. In this article, I’ll break down Utah’s current solar incentives and how they can work in your favor.

Utah Solar Incentives 2025

Residential Clean Energy Credit

The Residential Clean Energy Credit is a federal tax credit worth 30% of your total solar installation cost – including panels, inverters, labor, and even batteries.

This is arguably the most generous solar incentive available today. If your system costs $20,000, you’ll cut $6,000 straight off your tax bill. For emphasis, this is not a deduction or rebate, but a direct credit against taxes you owe.

To claim this incentive, you must file IRS Form 5695 with your federal tax return.

Keep in mind, however, that how much you can claim in a given year depends on your tax liability. The good news is that if your tax liability is lower than the credit, you can carry forward the remaining credit in future years. 

The federal solar tax credit is available to all U.S. homeowners through at least 2032 under the Inflation Reduction Act.

Net Metering in Utah

Net metering (or in some cases, net billing) is a utility billing program that lets you earn credit for the extra solar power your home sends back to the grid.

Here’s a bit of context: Most people use the most electricity after sunset, right when your solar panels stop producing. Net metering helps bridge that gap. Your overproduction during sunny hours doesn’t go to waste, but rather, gets banked as credits that help cover your nighttime and cloudy-day usage.

Essentially, it’s like trading your unused daytime electricity for future bill savings.

Now that that’s out of the way, the question then becomes: How much credit can you actually earn from it? It depends largely on your utility provider’s net metering policies.

• Rocky Mountain Power (RMP): Uses net billing, where excess energy is credited at the utility’s avoided-cost rate (between 4 to 6¢/kWh, depending on the billing month)
• Provo Power: Uses net billing, where they compensate excess solar generation at a fixed export rate of 6.7 cents per kilowatt-hour (kWh).
• Murray City Power: Offers net metering, where every kWh you export is credited at the retail rate (1 to 1 net metering). 
• City of St. George: Also on net billing. You’re paid for excess energy at wholesale market rates, not retail. Exact fees are available on their official website.
• Heber Light & Power: Offers net metering. Compensation rates for excess energy are available on their official website.

As you can see, some utilities compensate for excess solar energy at full retail rate while others at a lower wholesale or avoided-cost rate. And that difference has everything to do with how much you’ll actually save.

But either way, these programs all help you recoup your solar investment and eventually shorten your solar payback period. 

Your solar installer will handle the interconnection paperwork and enroll you in your utility’s net metering program as part of the installation process.

Energy-Efficient Mortgages

Energy-Efficient Mortgages (EEMs) is a loan program that lets you roll solar costs into your mortgage, either when buying a new home or refinancing your existing one.

That means you can fund home energy upgrades without taking a separate loan, and spread the solar costs over 15 to 30 years, often at lower interest rates than personal loans or solar-specific financing.

Eligible upgrades typically include:

• Solar PV systems
• Battery storage
• ENERGY STAR® appliances
• Insulation
• Energy-efficient windows and HVAC systems

To apply, you’ll need to work with a participating mortgage lender. Let them know you’re interested in an EEM, and they’ll guide you through eligibility and documentation (usually including a home energy audit to verify savings):

• If you’re using an FHA or VA loan, you can ask the lender if they can add an EEM feature. 
• For conventional loans, ask if they support Fannie Mae’s HomeStyle® Energy product.

Battery Storage Incentives in Utah

If you’re already thinking about investing in a solar battery (or looking for reasons to invest in one), know that – apart from the 30% federal solar tax credit – another way you can get “paid” for a home solar battery is through Rocky Mountain Power’s Wattsmart Battery Program.

The Wattsmart Battery Program rewards homeowners for letting the utility tap into their battery storage during periods of high grid demand, such as during hot summer afternoons or winter peaks. In return, you get paid for every kilowatt of storage capacity your battery provides.

Here’s how you can benefit from this program:

• Enrollment Incentive: Upfront cash payment of $400 per kilowatt (with a $2,000 cap per household)
• Annual Bill Credits: $15 per kilowatt (starting in the 2nd year of the program)

To qualify, you must be an RMP residential customer. Moreover, your battery must be from the utility’s approved equipment list.

Is the Renewable Energy Systems Tax Credit Still Available?

No, Utah’s former state-initiated solar tax credit is no longer available for homeowners. The program, officially known as the Renewable Energy Systems Tax Credit (RESTC), ended for residential systems installed after December 31, 2023.

That means if you installed your solar panels in 2024 or later, you won’t be able to claim any state tax credit from Utah.

Why Am I Not Getting My Full Solar Tax Credit?

If your federal solar tax credit isn’t as big as you expected, the most common reason is that you didn’t owe enough in taxes. If your tax liability is too low for the year, you won’t be able to claim the full amount in the first year. However, you can roll over the unused portion for future years.

Is Solar Worth It in Utah?

Yes, solar is absolutely worth it in Utah. If you pause for a second and look beyond just the price tag, you’ll see why going solar makes sense in Utah, not just on paper, but also in practice:

• Electricity prices aren’t staying put in Utah. In just one year alone from early 2024 to early 2025, average residential electricity prices in Utah rose from around 10 cents to nearly 12 cents per kilowatt-hour – a 20% jump. Going solar lets you lock in a steady cost for years to come, softening the blow of such price hikes.
• Homes with solar sell for more. That means if you ever decide to move, you’re more likely to sell your home quicker and for a better price.
• Utah gets about 5.5 peak sun hours per day. That’s more than New York, Massachusetts, and even parts of California. More sunlight means more energy from your system, faster payback, and better long-term savings.

Final Thoughts on Utah Solar Incentives

If you’ve done some prior research, you might have noticed that Utah doesn’t exactly roll out the flashiest rebates like states such as California, New Jersey, or New York.

But here’s the thing: Incentives are just one part of the equation. What really makes or breaks your solar savings is how well your system is designed – from panel placement to inverter choice to matching your usage patterns. And that’s something a reputable solar installer can help you get right.

If you want to know what a well-designed solar system tailored to your home’s energy needs could actually cost you in Utah, request a quote today. We at Avail Solar have installed hundreds of systems across the state, and we’re confident we can give you a price that fits both your goals and your budget. 

If you already see the value solar provides and are ready to move forward, you likely now face the next big decision: Choosing the right provider through the solar proposals you receive. Here’s the thing. It’s not always apples to apples. Proposals can differ in scope, assumptions, and the level of detail, and that’s where things can either go smoothly or leave you scratching your head. Having worked on several home solar projects throughout Utah with Avail Solar (and having prepared many of those solar proposals myself), I wrote this article to walk you through exactly what a proposal should include. More importantly, I’ll point out which details you need to pay attention to so you can tell whether the offer in front of you truly fits your home and situation. After all, this isn’t a project that sits on your roof for a week, but one that’ll likely stay with your home for decades.

What’s Included in a Solar Proposal?

These are the key elements you should clearly look into once you receive a solar proposal.

System Size (kW)

System size, measured in kilowatts (kW), refers to the total power output your solar system can produce at full capacity. In most proposals, this will be one of the first numbers you see, often shown as something like “6.2 kW system.”

This number matters because it gives you a snapshot of how much electricity your system could generate, but it should ideally line up with your actual energy use at home. Too small, and you fall short. Too big, and you might be overspending for power you won’t use.

I wrote a separate guide on how to size your solar system. You can use it to check whether the system size listed in your proposal actually makes sense based on your household’s energy needs.

Estimated Annual Production (kWh)

Estimated annual production refers to the amount of electricity your solar system is expected to generate over a full year, expressed in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

Because it’s in the same unit as your utility bills, it’s easy to compare this number against your past energy use and see how well the system is expected to cover your needs.

Keep in mind that a thought-through solar proposal won’t just give you a single yearly estimate. It will usually include a month-by-month breakdown, either in table form or as a graph. This lets you see how your solar production might rise or dip throughout the year.

Even better, most proposals will show this production estimate right next to your own historical energy usage. That way, you can immediately see how well the system is expected to meet your actual needs (solar providers will usually ask for your recent utility data to do this).

It’s also fair to expect the proposal to clearly state what assumptions were used to come up with these numbers. That includes shading losses, orientation of your roof, and local weather patterns, among other things.

Project Site Layout

The project site layout is a visual representation of how your solar panels will be positioned on your roof (or elsewhere on your property), a bird’s-eye view showing where each panel will go, essentially.

If you look a bit deeper, this layout also shows surrounding buildings, trees, and other potential obstructions that may create shading, along with the direction your panels are facing, which also affects your production.

This matters because it gives you added context for the assumptions made earlier in the simulation used to estimate your annual production.

Estimated Savings, ROI, and Payback Period

A well-prepared proposal should show you the dollar outcomes clearly, because beyond the goal of cutting down carbon, solar is, first and foremost, an investment. That being said, you can expect to see:

• Estimated savings: Usually refer to how much you’ll avoid paying the utility over your panels’ lifespan (around 20 to 25 years). These are often shown in dollar amounts, either as a lump sum or year-over-year comparison.
• Payback period: Tells you how long it might take for your savings to equal the cost of your system, or essentially, when your system has paid for itself.
• Return on Investment (ROI): Gives you more financial lens to compare your solar system with other big-ticket investments, like home renovations or even stock market returns.

These often show up as tables, bar graphs, or line charts in your proposal, helping you see how your money moves over time.

On this note, it helps if the proposal also states upfront any assumptions about rising electricity costs, since even a small utility escalator can quietly shape how realistic those savings projections really are.

If you want to understand exactly how these numbers are calculated, I wrote a full article breaking down solar panel return on investment. It’ll hopefully help you do your own math to see whether the savings in your proposal are realistic or inflated.

Financing Options

Like many solar companies, we, at Avail Solar, work with trusted financing partners to make solar more accessible. Because let’s face it, solar isn’t exactly cheap by any means, and most homeowners need flexible options to make it work.

That’s why your proposal should clearly show:

• Who the financing provider is
• How many payments you’ll be making (and how often)
• The exact dollar amount per payment.

You’ll usually get a visual breakdown as well, a simple cash flow chart showing what you’re expected to pay over time and how that compares against projected savings.

Some proposals may also include options like solar leases or Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs), which sound great upfront since they often come with zero initial cost.

However, they could end up costing you more in the long run, especially because you won’t own the system. If you want the full picture, I wrote an article on how solar panel leasing works, where I also explain why, personally, I’m not a fan of these types of solar contracts.

Total Cost of Your System

The total cost of your solar system is, of course, a major detail. But don’t just stop at this headline figure.

You’ll want to check if the math includes solar incentives, like the 30% federal tax credit or any state/local programs, which can cut thousands off the final amount. These should be clearly stated in the proposal.

Another useful figure is cost per watt ($/W), which is one of the simplest ways to compare pricing across different offers. Some proposals leave it out, but you can calculate it yourself: Just divide the total system cost (before incentives) by the system size in watts.

Panel and Inverter Brands/Models

Imagine being promised premium, high-efficiency equipment in your proposal, only to find out later during installation that you’re getting something else entirely. It happens, and many times, it’s not even intentional.

That’s why it’s worth knowing exactly what equipment you’re getting upfront, especially since quality often isn’t broken down line by line, but rather rolled into the total system cost.

Panels on the higher end typically have higher efficiencies, stronger warranties, and better manufacturer backing. As for inverters, microinverters, string inverters, and hybrid setups each come with their own pros and tradeoffs.

If product data sheets aren’t included in the proposal, you can always request them directly from the solar provider. These documents give you a deeper look into the specs and certifications of the equipment being offered.

Warranties and Guarantees

Another item usually bundled into your total system cost is the warranty coverage, which is something you shouldn’t overlook, especially since solar is meant to last decades:

• Product warranties usually come from the panel and inverter manufacturers and cover defects in materials or workmanship. These often run for 10 to 25 years.
• Performance warranties guarantee that your solar panels will continue producing at a certain percentage (typically 80% or higher) of their original capacity by year 25.
• Workmanship warranties are offered by the installer and cover labor-related issues, like improper mounting or wiring mistakes. These vary by company but often range from 5 to 15 years.

If you want a deeper dive into what each of these warranties covers (and what they don’t), check out our full guide on solar panel warranties.

Project Scope

One area that often causes the most friction down the line is the project scope. This is the part that outlines what your installer is actually responsible for, and what they aren’t.

This matters because some of the biggest misunderstandings happen when homeowners think something is included, only to find out later it’s not. That’s where those “hidden cost” surprises often come from.

That said, here are a few key things your proposal should spell out clearly:

• Who handles what: Does your installer take care of solar permitting and HOA approvals? What about any fees tied to that? Will they assist with post-installation support, like monitoring setup or panel cleaning?
• Timeline expectations: What’s the estimated schedule for permitting, installation, and final grid interconnection? Delays can happen, sure, but your proposal should at least give you a baseline so you’re not left unclear when things will move forward.
• Aesthetic considerations: Did the installer take time to ask about your preferences? That could include choosing all-black modules, using conduit runs that are less visible, or adding array skirts to make your system blend in better from the curb.

Solar Company Details

Most proposals will include a quick blurb about the company offering the installation. That’s pretty much standard. But don’t just take those statements at face value, because what a company says about itself and what its customers experience can be two very different things.

That said, I always recommend doing your own research. And one of the best ways to do that is to give them a call. Ask direct questions and pay attention to how they respond. I put together a guide on questions to ask solar companies that you can use as a reference if you’re not sure where to start.

Solar Proposals Vary by Home

If your cousin in another state (or even just a few neighborhoods away) tells you they got solar for way less or with different equipment, don’t be surprised if your proposal looks nothing like theirs. Here are 5 reasons why no two solar proposals are the same:

• Electricity rates, annual inflation, and average sunlight hours differ by region, which means the same system in one state might produce more or less in another.
• Different installers may use different assumptions or tools in their simulations, which can lead to wide variations in projected energy production.
• Some panels are more efficient and degrade more slowly over time, but they may cost more upfront. What you’re quoted depends heavily on what you’re being offered.
• Some proposals include extras like batteries, monitoring, or extended warranties. Others leave these out or treat them as optional add-ons.
• Not all proposals are equally transparent. Some give you every number and assumption up front, while others bury critical details or gloss over them entirely.

If you already have a reference proposal from another installer, you can always bring it to your current provider. Avail Solar, for instance, will help walk you through the differences and explain whether there’s room to match the offer or if your system needs a different setup.

Get Solar Proposals That Match Your Needs

By now, you’ve seen what goes into a well-prepared solar proposal and how the real focus should be on how well the proposal fits your home, usage, and long-term goals, not just the price tag. 

So before saying yes to anything, make sure you’ve asked the right questions, got a second opinion, and taken the time to really think it through.

And if you’re ready to request a quick proposal (or want something more competitive than what you already have), reach out to Avail Solar and request a quote today!

If you already see the value solar provides and are ready to move forward, you likely now face the next big decision: Choosing the right provider through the solar proposals you receive. Here’s the thing. It’s not always apples to apples. Proposals can differ in scope, assumptions, and the level of detail, and that’s where things can either go smoothly or leave you scratching your head. Having worked on several home solar projects throughout Utah with Avail Solar (and having prepared many of those solar proposals myself), I wrote this article to walk you through exactly what a proposal should include. More importantly, I’ll point out which details you need to pay attention to so you can tell whether the offer in front of you truly fits your home and situation. After all, this isn’t a project that sits on your roof for a week, but one that’ll likely stay with your home for decades.

What’s Included in a Solar Proposal?

These are the key elements you should clearly look into once you receive a solar proposal.

System Size (kW)

System size, measured in kilowatts (kW), refers to the total power output your solar system can produce at full capacity. In most proposals, this will be one of the first numbers you see, often shown as something like “6.2 kW system.”

This number matters because it gives you a snapshot of how much electricity your system could generate, but it should ideally line up with your actual energy use at home. Too small, and you fall short. Too big, and you might be overspending for power you won’t use.

I wrote a separate guide on how to size your solar system. You can use it to check whether the system size listed in your proposal actually makes sense based on your household’s energy needs.

Estimated Annual Production (kWh)

Estimated annual production refers to the amount of electricity your solar system is expected to generate over a full year, expressed in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

Because it’s in the same unit as your utility bills, it’s easy to compare this number against your past energy use and see how well the system is expected to cover your needs.

Keep in mind that a thought-through solar proposal won’t just give you a single yearly estimate. It will usually include a month-by-month breakdown, either in table form or as a graph. This lets you see how your solar production might rise or dip throughout the year.

Even better, most proposals will show this production estimate right next to your own historical energy usage. That way, you can immediately see how well the system is expected to meet your actual needs (solar providers will usually ask for your recent utility data to do this).

It’s also fair to expect the proposal to clearly state what assumptions were used to come up with these numbers. That includes shading losses, orientation of your roof, and local weather patterns, among other things.

Project Site Layout

The project site layout is a visual representation of how your solar panels will be positioned on your roof (or elsewhere on your property), a bird’s-eye view showing where each panel will go, essentially.

If you look a bit deeper, this layout also shows surrounding buildings, trees, and other potential obstructions that may create shading, along with the direction your panels are facing, which also affects your production.

This matters because it gives you added context for the assumptions made earlier in the simulation used to estimate your annual production.

Estimated Savings, ROI, and Payback Period

A well-prepared proposal should show you the dollar outcomes clearly, because beyond the goal of cutting down carbon, solar is, first and foremost, an investment. That being said, you can expect to see:

• Estimated savings: Usually refer to how much you’ll avoid paying the utility over your panels’ lifespan (around 20 to 25 years). These are often shown in dollar amounts, either as a lump sum or year-over-year comparison.
• Payback period: Tells you how long it might take for your savings to equal the cost of your system, or essentially, when your system has paid for itself.
• Return on Investment (ROI): Gives you more financial lens to compare your solar system with other big-ticket investments, like home renovations or even stock market returns.

These often show up as tables, bar graphs, or line charts in your proposal, helping you see how your money moves over time.

On this note, it helps if the proposal also states upfront any assumptions about rising electricity costs, since even a small utility escalator can quietly shape how realistic those savings projections really are.

If you want to understand exactly how these numbers are calculated, I wrote a full article breaking down solar panel return on investment. It’ll hopefully help you do your own math to see whether the savings in your proposal are realistic or inflated.

Financing Options

Like many solar companies, we, at Avail Solar, work with trusted financing partners to make solar more accessible. Because let’s face it, solar isn’t exactly cheap by any means, and most homeowners need flexible options to make it work.

That’s why your proposal should clearly show:

• Who the financing provider is
• How many payments you’ll be making (and how often)
• The exact dollar amount per payment.

You’ll usually get a visual breakdown as well, a simple cash flow chart showing what you’re expected to pay over time and how that compares against projected savings.

Some proposals may also include options like solar leases or Power Purchase Agreements (PPAs), which sound great upfront since they often come with zero initial cost.

However, they could end up costing you more in the long run, especially because you won’t own the system. If you want the full picture, I wrote an article on how solar panel leasing works, where I also explain why, personally, I’m not a fan of these types of solar contracts.

Total Cost of Your System

The total cost of your solar system is, of course, a major detail. But don’t just stop at this headline figure.

You’ll want to check if the math includes solar incentives, like the 30% federal tax credit or any state/local programs, which can cut thousands off the final amount. These should be clearly stated in the proposal.

Another useful figure is cost per watt ($/W), which is one of the simplest ways to compare pricing across different offers. Some proposals leave it out, but you can calculate it yourself: Just divide the total system cost (before incentives) by the system size in watts.

Panel and Inverter Brands/Models

Imagine being promised premium, high-efficiency equipment in your proposal, only to find out later during installation that you’re getting something else entirely. It happens, and many times, it’s not even intentional.

That’s why it’s worth knowing exactly what equipment you’re getting upfront, especially since quality often isn’t broken down line by line, but rather rolled into the total system cost.

Panels on the higher end typically have higher efficiencies, stronger warranties, and better manufacturer backing. As for inverters, microinverters, string inverters, and hybrid setups each come with their own pros and tradeoffs.

If product data sheets aren’t included in the proposal, you can always request them directly from the solar provider. These documents give you a deeper look into the specs and certifications of the equipment being offered.

Warranties and Guarantees

Another item usually bundled into your total system cost is the warranty coverage, which is something you shouldn’t overlook, especially since solar is meant to last decades:

• Product warranties usually come from the panel and inverter manufacturers and cover defects in materials or workmanship. These often run for 10 to 25 years.
• Performance warranties guarantee that your solar panels will continue producing at a certain percentage (typically 80% or higher) of their original capacity by year 25.
• Workmanship warranties are offered by the installer and cover labor-related issues, like improper mounting or wiring mistakes. These vary by company but often range from 5 to 15 years.

If you want a deeper dive into what each of these warranties covers (and what they don’t), check out our full guide on solar panel warranties.

Project Scope

One area that often causes the most friction down the line is the project scope. This is the part that outlines what your installer is actually responsible for, and what they aren’t.

This matters because some of the biggest misunderstandings happen when homeowners think something is included, only to find out later it’s not. That’s where those “hidden cost” surprises often come from.

That said, here are a few key things your proposal should spell out clearly:

• Who handles what: Does your installer take care of solar permitting and HOA approvals? What about any fees tied to that? Will they assist with post-installation support, like monitoring setup or panel cleaning?
• Timeline expectations: What’s the estimated schedule for permitting, installation, and final grid interconnection? Delays can happen, sure, but your proposal should at least give you a baseline so you’re not left unclear when things will move forward.
• Aesthetic considerations: Did the installer take time to ask about your preferences? That could include choosing all-black modules, using conduit runs that are less visible, or adding array skirts to make your system blend in better from the curb.

Solar Company Details

Most proposals will include a quick blurb about the company offering the installation. That’s pretty much standard. But don’t just take those statements at face value, because what a company says about itself and what its customers experience can be two very different things.

That said, I always recommend doing your own research. And one of the best ways to do that is to give them a call. Ask direct questions and pay attention to how they respond. I put together a guide on questions to ask solar companies that you can use as a reference if you’re not sure where to start.

Solar Proposals Vary by Home

If your cousin in another state (or even just a few neighborhoods away) tells you they got solar for way less or with different equipment, don’t be surprised if your proposal looks nothing like theirs. Here are 5 reasons why no two solar proposals are the same:

• Electricity rates, annual inflation, and average sunlight hours differ by region, which means the same system in one state might produce more or less in another.
• Different installers may use different assumptions or tools in their simulations, which can lead to wide variations in projected energy production.
• Some panels are more efficient and degrade more slowly over time, but they may cost more upfront. What you’re quoted depends heavily on what you’re being offered.
• Some proposals include extras like batteries, monitoring, or extended warranties. Others leave these out or treat them as optional add-ons.
• Not all proposals are equally transparent. Some give you every number and assumption up front, while others bury critical details or gloss over them entirely.

If you already have a reference proposal from another installer, you can always bring it to your current provider. Avail Solar, for instance, will help walk you through the differences and explain whether there’s room to match the offer or if your system needs a different setup.

Get Solar Proposals That Match Your Needs

By now, you’ve seen what goes into a well-prepared solar proposal and how the real focus should be on how well the proposal fits your home, usage, and long-term goals, not just the price tag. 

So before saying yes to anything, make sure you’ve asked the right questions, got a second opinion, and taken the time to really think it through.

And if you’re ready to request a quick proposal (or want something more competitive than what you already have), reach out to Avail Solar and request a quote today!

If you’re installing a grid-tied solar system for your home, chances are you’ll rely on a certified installer to figure out the technical stuff, including how big your system should be. But if you’re the type who wants to get to the bottom of how sizing works before anyone starts quoting you with numbers (especially when every extra kilowatt can add thousands to the total cost), you’re in the right place. In this guide, I’ll walk you through how to size your home solar system step-by-step, so you can double-check whether your installer’s proposal makes sense.

How to Size a Solar System in 5 Steps

Step 1: Know Your Average Monthly Energy Use (kWh)

A good approach to determining a solid baseline for your household energy use is by collecting your last 12 months of electric bills and checking the monthly kilowatt-hour (kWh) usage. From there, take the average of those 12 months.

Averaging smooths out those highs and lows, especially considering consumption spikes in summer when the AC runs all day, and again in winter with heating.

Now, you could also begin by looking at your budget or available roof space (we’ll cover those later). But averaging your last 12 months of energy use is arguably the most reliable method for estimating your solar system size since it’s based on actual data and not assumptions.

Step 2: Convert Monthly Use into Daily Average

Now that you’ve got your monthly average from Step 1, the next step is figuring out your daily usage. Simply divide your monthly average by 30.

Say your average monthly use is 900 kWh (which is roughly the average energy consumption for a U.S. household), then your average daily use amounts to: 

900 kWh ÷ 30 days = 30 kWh per day

That means, if you’re planning to offset 100% of your usage, your solar system needs to be capable of producing 30 kWh per day as well.

In a sense, you now have a rough idea of what your system should cover daily, and thus its “size”. However, this doesn’t give the full picture because when we talk about solar system size, we refer to it in kilowatts (kW), not kilowatt-hours (kWh).

To close the loop, we’ll use your average daily usage alongside your location’s sun hours, as we’ll do in the next step.

Step 3: Account for Your Location’s Sun Hours

Average daily sun hours is a measure of how many hours per day the sun is strong enough to generate power. You can find your area’s average sun hours using this solar irradiance map from the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL). 

If you’ve done any research on solar or sat through a pitch from a solar company, chances are you’ve already come across the term hybrid inverter, alongside other inverter types like string inverters or microinverters. Hybrid inverters represent a newer generation of solar technology. While newer doesn’t always mean better across the board, in specific cases — like preparing for battery storage — they can offer an advantage. In this article, I’ll walk you through what a hybrid inverter is, how it works, and its pros and cons compared with traditional inverter setups.

What is a Hybrid Inverter and How Does It Work?

A hybrid inverter is a type of inverter that can handle both solar panel input and battery storage — all in one unit. To be more specific:

• It converts solar DC energy into home-ready AC electricity, just like traditional string inverters do.
• It can send energy to charge a battery and pull energy from that battery to power your home when needed

It does everything a standard inverter does, converting power and exporting excess energy to the grid, but being able to switch intelligently between sources (solar, grid, battery) depending on your home’s needs — a “smarter” version of the traditional inverter, basically.

How is a Hybrid Inverter Different From a Regular Inverter?

The biggest difference between a hybrid inverter and a regular inverter arguably comes down to battery readiness and energy management.

With a hybrid inverter, you have a smart traffic cop that directs power to the most efficient path. Depending on your goals and preferences, it may:

• Send solar power to your home first, and then store any extra in the battery
• Prioritize charging your battery first — ideal if you want backup power during frequent outages
• Only send excess power to the grid after the battery is fully charged
• Pull power from the battery at night or during expensive time-of-use pricing periods

On the other hand, a regular grid-tied inverter simply converts the DC power from your solar panels into AC power for your home and the grid — and that’s it.

It doesn’t know or care about your battery. It doesn’t prioritize it, manage it, or optimize how or when it’s charged or discharged. It just pumps out AC power, regardless of your energy strategy.

Benefits of a Hybrid Inverter

Okay, cool, a hybrid inverter can do all that. But is it really necessary?

If you’re thinking about going solar and are already pretty dead set on adding a battery soon, then yes, you’re likely better off choosing a hybrid inverter.

Here are three main pros that highlight why:

Cleaner, Simpler Solar Setup

With a hybrid inverter, everything — your solar panels, your battery, and the grid connection — is managed by one unit. This means fewer components, cleaner wiring, and an overall simpler setup.

Meanwhile, for a traditional string inverter to achieve this kind of energy management functionality, it needs to be paired with a smart battery system.

That alone, at first glance, already tells you that you’re dealing with two separate systems that have to work together — one handling solar, the other handling storage. And that naturally leads to more wiring, more hardware boxes, and more potential points of failure over time.

To be fair, this alternative route works perfectly fine. In fact, it’s what I’ve seen with most solar customers, especially those who either added a battery much later or took over an existing system they’re looking to retrofit.

Higher Efficiency

Looking at energy conversions from a theoretical angle, every time energy changes from DC to AC or vice versa, a little bit gets lost as heat. The more conversions there are, the more energy you lose.

So in terms of efficiency, fewer conversions usually mean better performance. 

A hybrid inverter converts energy only twice.

• The inverter takes DC energy from your panels and stores it directly into your battery — still in DC.
• Later, when your home needs it, the inverter converts it once into AC to power your appliances.

One conversion in, one conversion out.

Meanwhile, in a string inverter plus a separate smart battery system setup:

• The inverter takes DC energy from your panels and converts it to AC.
• The smart battery’s inverter converts that AC energy back into DC to charge your battery (because batteries store energy in DC, not AC).
• When your home needs that stored energy, the battery’s inverter converts the stored DC energy back to AC.

That’s three conversions instead of two, making hybrid inverters slightly more efficient than this setup.

The difference might not seem all that dramatic if you’re looking at just a single moment of energy transfer. But remember, we’re talking about energy conversions that happen every day, over and over again. Over time, those little bits of energy loss add up.

That’s why hybrid inverters tend to edge out in performance when it comes to battery integration.

Unified Control

When we say “unified control,” we mean having the ability to manage everything from a single platform.

Hybrid systems often make this super simple. Most hybrid inverters come with their own app or dashboard, giving you a real-time view of how much power you’re generating, storing, and using.

Now compare that with a traditional setup where you pair a string inverter with a smart battery. In this case, you’re dealing with two separate systems. That usually means two different interfaces, which can feel less streamlined and a bit more clunky when you’re trying to track everything or make adjustments.

Disadvantages of Hybrid Inverters

Below are the cons and drawbacks of hybrid inverters.

One System Means One Single Point of Failure

This, I would say, is the most critical drawback of hybrid inverters. We’ve talked a lot about the convenience of having everything handled by a single unit, but that same convenience can also be its kryptonite.

If that one unit fails, everything goes down with it — your solar, your battery, and your grid syncing.

With a dedicated inverter for solar and a separate one for your battery, at least your battery could still charge and step in during outages, even if the solar side of the system has issues.

You Can’t Use It to Upgrade an Existing System

If someone already has a solar setup with a traditional string inverter, it doesn’t really make practical or financial sense to rip it out and replace it with a hybrid inverter just to add a battery. At that point, going with a smart battery that comes with its own inverter is often the simpler and more cost-effective route.

Battery Compatibility Can Be Limited

If you already have a specific battery in mind, it’s worth double-checking whether it’ll work with the hybrid inverter you’re planning to use. Some inverters only support certain battery brands, so if there’s no match, you might have to either change your inverter or go with a different battery entirely.

Can a Hybrid Inverter Work Without a Battery?

Yes, you don’t need a battery to use a hybrid inverter. Without one, it works a lot like a traditional inverter: It converts solar DC into usable AC and sends any excess power to the grid.

In this case, you’re not using it to its full potential just yet. Again, the real strength of a hybrid inverter lies in its ability to manage battery storage, which means without a battery, you’re only tapping into part of what it can do.

The good part is that in this case too, you have flexibility. You can start with solar now and easily add a battery later without needing to do much reconfiguration to your system.

How Long Do Hybrid Inverters Last?

Hybrid inverters typically last around 10 to 15 years, which is about the same as most string inverters. For comparison, microinverters tend to have a longer lifespan, often lasting up to 20 years.

How Do Hybrid Inverters Handle Power Outages?

If paired with a battery, the inverter detects an outage and switches to stored power instantly, usually within milliseconds. That means you can expect a truly automatic switchover so fast you won’t even notice the power went out.

Do Hybrid Inverters Require Maintenance?

Yes, hybrid inverters still require maintenance, but not much. However, since they handle both your solar system and your battery, it could be worth checking occasionally to make sure the unit is free of dust, ventilation isn’t blocked, and there are no error lights or app alerts.

Some models update firmware automatically, so in most cases, that part takes care of itself.

Final Thoughts

Going with a hybrid inverter makes a lot of sense if you’re planning to install a battery soon. It keeps everything clean and simple — one unit, one installation, ready for storage now or later.

That said, if you’re not 100% sure about adding a battery yet, no worries. Like I mentioned earlier, you can absolutely stick with a traditional setup and still add a battery later using a smart battery system. It’ll take a bit more work and wiring, but for a certified solar installer like us, it’s nothing out of the ordinary.

Still, here’s something worth thinking about: Maybe you don’t need a battery today because your utility offers full retail net metering. But that could change. 

Case in point: Arizona transitioned to net billing in 2016, Utah in 2017, and more recently, Idaho followed suit in 2023. All three now pay homeowners less for the solar they export to the grid.

What this means is, storing your own solar power instead of selling it back could be the smarter financial move going forward.

If you’re curious how a battery might fit into your solar setup, get in touch. We at Avail Solar would love to walk you through your options in a quick, friendly chat.

When we picture the winter season, most of us imagine our roofs buried in snow, the biting cold that lingers, and the sun barely making an appearance. And so, the idea of solar energy during this time can feel a bit counterintuitive. But contrary to popular belief, solar panels do still work in winter, which means the value of going solar doesn’t disappear — and your investment doesn’t go to waste. Read further as I walk you through the facts about what happens to solar during winter, and how they continue to produce energy even when it’s cold and overcast outside.

Do Solar Panels Work in Winter?

Yes, solar panels absolutely work in winter. As long as there’s sunlight, your panels will keep generating electricity — because what they need is light, not heat.

Side note: I’ve actually stressed this a lot in a previous article, Do Solar Panels Work on a Cloudy Day?

Here are three facts that show why winter doesn’t actually stop your system, and how, in some cases, it might even give it a bit of an edge.

Solar Panels Run on Sunlight, Not Temperature

This might be the biggest misconception out there. As I mentioned, solar panels don’t need warm weather to function. They need photons, which come from sunlight. Even in winter, the sun still shines (albeit for shorter hours), and that light is enough to keep your system going.

To put this in perspective, take a look at Minnesota and Michigan. Both states experience harsh winters, yet still rank among the top 20 solar states in the U.S., according to the Solar Energy Industries Association (SEIA).

Solar Panels Are More Efficient in Cold Weather

Building on the previous point about solar panels not needing heat to function, it might surprise you that they’re not particularly fond of high temperatures either.

In fact, excessive heat can reduce their voltage, which in turn slightly lowers their efficiency.

Most solar panels are tested at a standard temperature of 77°F (25°C), but for every degree Celsius above that, their efficiency drops slightly. This drop is measured by what’s called the temperature coefficient — usually around -0.3% to -0.5% per °C, depending on the panel brand.

For example, if your panels are operating in 30°C (86°F), that’s 5°C above the test condition of 25°C (77°F). With a temperature coefficient of -0.3% per °C, this means you’d lose about 1.5% efficiency due to the heat.

So if your panels are rated at 21% efficiency under ideal conditions, they’d drop to around 19.5% efficiency under those warmer temperatures.

In contrast, colder temperatures reduce internal resistance. That means with less heat to push against, panels convert sunlight to electricity more effectively.

The ‘Albedo Effect’ Can Actually Increase Solar Output

When sunlight hits snow-covered surfaces, that light reflects back upward — a phenomenon called the albedo effect.

That extra reflected light can bounce onto your panels and boost the amount of energy they take in. In theory, the more they absorb, the more electricity your system can generate.

Do Solar Panels Work With Snow on Them?

Yes, solar panels can still work when covered in snow — but only if the snow isn’t entirely covering them. A thin dusting probably won’t affect that much, but a heavy blanket of snow can temporarily block sunlight from reaching the panel.

Fortunately, solar panels are usually installed at an angle, so when the sun comes back out, most of the snow begins to melt and slide away on its own. Helping this along is the fact that panels are built with smooth, tempered glass, which makes it harder for snow to stick in the first place.

They also generate a bit of heat while operating, which, combined with their dark surface absorbing sunlight, helps them shed snow faster than the surrounding roof.

How Well Do Solar Panels Work in Winter?

During winter, solar panel production can drop to about 30% to 50% of a system’s rated capacity. So if your system typically produces 900 kWh in July, you might only see around 270 to 450 kWh during the colder months.

Do take that with a grain of salt, though, because how much less energy your system produces in winter depends on several factors:

• Daylight Hours: States with more peak sun hours tend to generate significantly more energy than those with fewer.
• Cloud Cover: The cloudier it gets during winter, the tougher it is for direct sunlight to break through. And when light intensity drops, so does your system’s energy production.
• Snow Cover: As mentioned, panels can occasionally get covered in snow. In rare cases where snow completely blocks sunlight, energy production ca nosedive, similar to how shading from trees or nearby structures can reduce output.

Even with all of that in mind, here’s why you shouldn’t worry.

Remember that a well-designed solar system is built to match your household’s energy use across all seasons. Combine that with net metering, and the energy your system overproduces during sunnier spring and summer months can be banked as credits to offset those dips in winter production.

So even if your panels generate a little less in the colder months, your annual performance still stays on track.

And speaking of ‘staying on track’, there are things you can do to keep your panels performing at their best during this low-yield season.

Ways to Keep Your PV Panels Performing Well in Winter

Use a Solar Snow Rake to Remove Buildup

If snow buildup is blocking light for days, you can gently remove it using a solar-safe brush or a roof rake with a soft rubber edge. Never use metal tools (like a shovel) or pressure washers as they can scratch or crack the glass surface.

Avoid Dangerous DIY

Don’t climb on an icy roof just to brush snow off panels. The energy gain isn’t worth the risk. As mentioned earlier, using a solar-safe snow rake from the ground is a much safer alternative if clearing snow becomes necessary.

Better yet, call a professional solar panel cleaning or maintenance team instead to do the job. 

Trim Nearby Trees

Since the winter sun rides low, even small shadows can cut down energy production. By trimming branches in late fall, you help maximize the light your panels can catch during shorter days. This is especially important in neighborhoods with mature trees.

Consider Oversizing Your System

Slightly oversizing your system can help you generate extra energy during the sunnier months — especially useful if your utility offers net metering. Those summer overages can turn into bill credits that help offset the dip in winter production.

This, I would say, is something you shouldn’t worry so much about. Certified solar installers like us will handle your system’s sizing based on your year-round energy use.

Explore Tracking Systems (If Applicable)

While residential rooftops don’t usually come with adjustable mounts, ground-mounted systems sometimes do. Dual-axis tracking systems can tilt and rotate to follow the sun throughout the day and year — including adjusting for that low winter sun angle.

Do Solar Panels Crack in Cold Weather?

No, solar panels don’t crack in the cold winter weather since they are engineered to resist very low temperatures. In fact, they undergo rigorous testing under standards like IEC 61215 and UL 1703, which includes the Thermal Cycling Test. 

Here, panels are subjected to temperature fluctuations between 40°C and +85°C for 200 cycles to simulate real-world thermal stresses.

Avail Solar proudly installs panels from REC, Hyundai, and QCells, all certified to meet these standards.

Winter Solar Works With the Right Design

Winter production dips — that’s expected. But that dip can be balanced out by the extra energy your system produces during sunnier months. It all comes down to one thing: A solar system tailored to your home’s consumption.

At Avail Solar, we build home solar systems that are ready not just for the winter, but for the entire year. Our team has installed hundreds of home solar setups across Utah, Nevada, and Colorado, all designed around seasonal shifts and real household energy needs.

Request a quote today or call us to get started

If you’ve spent any time learning about net metering, chances are you’ve come across something called the solar true-up bill — or if not, you probably will at some point.  Even so, it’s one of those things that doesn’t get much attention upfront, but can catch you off guard if you’re not prepared for it. And while most homeowners are familiar with their monthly utility bills, the true-up bill works a little differently. So in this article, I’ll explain exactly what it is, how it ties into net metering, and what you can expect.

What is a Solar True Up Bill?

A solar true-up bill is a statement from your utility that sums up all the energy you’ve sent to the grid and taken from the grid over a 12-month billing cycle. Essentially, it settles the difference between what your solar system produced and what your home used over the year.

A typical solar true-up statement includes several important data points:

• The total amount of electricity your system produced
• The total energy your home consumed
• Net energy metering credits earned and used
• Any remaining balance due or credit surplus
• Charges for grid access, delivery, or other fixed fees