Solar panel warranties protect your investment and keep your system running for decades. In fact, many manufacturers guarantee performance for 25+ years! But here’s the thing: warranties aren’t a free pass for every issue. There are fine-print conditions, gray areas, and actions that could void your warranty completely.  And If you don’t know what to watch out for, you could end up paying out of pocket for repairs you thought were covered. Read this guide to learn exactly what’s covered and what’s not, and the answers to some of the most frequently asked questions about warranties, so you can transition to solar with confidence.

What Issues are Covered in a Solar Panel Warranty?

The issues covered by a solar panel warranty depend on the type of warranty that applies. These include:

Product Warranty

A product warranty protects you against manufacturing defects and material failures in your solar panels. Physically, these issues can appear as:

  • Glass delamination, where the panel’s outer layer starts separating
  • Hot spots, which are burn marks from uneven electrical currents.
  • Other defects that show up, like cracks, frame warping, or faulty junction boxes

If you suspect a defect, the manufacturer will typically ask for proof before approving a claim. They may request photos, a description of the problem, and, in some cases, an inspection by a technician.

Once they confirm the defect, they’ll then offer a replacement panel or a repair service usually at no cost. Some manufacturers might also cover labor costs, but this varies by warranty terms.

Performance Warranty

The other type of warranty that comes from purchasing your solar panels is the performance warranty. This protects you if your panels produce less energy than they should based on the manufacturer’s guaranteed performance over time.

For context, most manufacturers expect a 0.5% to 0.8% degradation rate per year, which means that after 25 years (i.e. the typical solar panel lifespan), your panels should still produce energy at roughly 80 to 90% of their original capacity.

If your system underperforms beyond the expected rate, they’ll typically repair or replace (whichever applies) the affected panels.

Bear in mind that a performance warranty does not apply if your panels are simply not producing at full wattage on a given day – that’s a different story. Energy output fluctuates due to factors like weather, shading, and time of day, which aren’t considered material- or workmanship-related problems.

Installation / Workmanship Warranty

A solar installation warranty, also called a workmanship warranty, is different from product and performance warranties. Instead of covering the panels themselves, this warranty protects you from faults or defects in the installation process, such as:

  • Loose or misaligned panels, which reduce production efficiency
  • Faulty wiring, which may cause electric failures (and in rare cases, solar panel fires)
  • Leaks around the mounting points, which can happen if the installer didn’t properly seal the penetrations in your roof (especially on asphalt or corrugated metal roofs)

That said, this protection is provided by the professional solar installer who sets up your system (just as we do at Avail Solar) and not your solar panel manufacturer.

That also means, if you install your solar panels yourself, you won’t have this type of protection, and any installation mistakes or damage will be your responsibility.

Fortunately, many states, cities, and HOAs require professional installation as part of the permitting process to meet safety and building standards. So, if this applies to you, your system will indeed come with a workmanship warranty.

What Issues are NOT Covered by Solar Panel Warranties?

From my own observations, these are some of the most common issues that solar warranties don’t cover:

  • A guarantee of a specific energy output: Your solar panel’s actual production depends on factors like weather, shading, and system maintenance, so manufacturers don’t promise a fixed amount of electricity generation.
  • Damage from extreme weather or unexpected events: This includes hail, hurricanes, floods, accidental breakage, and theft, among many others. Your homeowner’s insurance might cover this instead.
  • Routine maintenance: Keeping your system in shape, such as cleaning panels or checking electrical connections, is your responsibility. However, if you have a professional installer handling the job, some (like us) include maintenance as part of their post-sales service.

There are also some gray areas where coverage depends on the manufacturer:

  • Labor costs and truck rolls: Some brands cover full labor costs, including diagnosis, repairs, material replacement, and shipping. Others may only cover diagnosis or material replacement, leaving you to pay for reinstallation. Some even offer full coverage but with a cap.
  • Damage from salt mist exposure: If you live near the coast, salt mist can cause panel corrosion over time. Most modern solar panels are resistant to this, but it’s worth checking whether your warranty explicitly includes or excludes it.

Now, these exclusions generally hold true, but I strongly recommend reading the fine print, as the warranty terms will lay out the specific conditions under which an issue is covered or not. If unsure, don’t hesitate to ask your solar provider to clarify.

How Long Do Solar Panel Warranties Last?

Generally speaking, solar panel warranties last for the following periods:

  • Product Warranty: 10 to 25 years
  • Performance Warranty: 80 to 92% efficiency after 25 years
  • Workmanship Warranty: Often 5 to 10 years

However, exact coverage periods depend on the brand/solar company.

To give you an idea, here’s a look at the product and performance warranties offered by some of the top solar panel manufacturers, including those we install at Avail Solar:

Brand/ManufacturerSolar Panel Product WarrantySolar Panel Performance Warranty
REC25 years92% at year 25
Hyundai25 years84.8% at year 25
QCells25 years90.58% at year 25
Maxeon25 years92% at year 25
Silfab Solar12 years90.8% at year 25
VSUN40 years89.4% at year 25

As you can see, some manufacturers, like VSUN, offer a massive 40-year product warranty, while others, like Silfab, provide only 12 years – unless you use a Silfab-certified installer, in which case the warranty extends to 25 years.

Again, as boring as it might be, those little asterisks in the fine print matter. Warranty terms spell out exactly what’s covered – and just as with Silfab’s extended warranty for certified installers, small details can make a big difference.

Now, how about workmanship warranties?

As I mentioned, workmanship warranties typically last around 10 years, though this varies by company. Some offer as little as 3 years, while others go beyond the average. 

For example, we at Avail Solar offer a 30-year Bumper-to-Bumper Workmanship Warranty, which means full coverage for any installation-related defects.

How to Submit a Solar Panel Warranty Claim

If you notice an issue with your solar system, the first step is to contact your solar installer as soon as possible. They’ll guide you through the next steps, which usually include providing a verbal description of the problem, submitting photos or video evidence, and filling out a warranty claim form.

Alternatively, you can check your manufacturer’s website for contact details and specific claim procedures if you prefer to review the process before reaching out.

Expect that, if necessary, the manufacturer or installer may send a technician to inspect your system and confirm the issue. Once verified, they’ll walk you through the next steps, whether that’s a replacement, repair, or other resolution under the warranty.

If you installed your solar system DIY, you’ll likely need to contact the manufacturer directly.

In this case, they may authorize some claim and, if necessary, they’ll often refer you to a certified technician or a partner service provider for further assessment.

And here’s one thing I always remind solar customers of – and you should definitely keep in mind too: Don’t delay making that claim call. Waiting too long might make the issue worse and lead to additional damage that your warranty won’t cover.

Are There Additional Costs Involved When Claiming a Solar Panel Warranty?

In some cases, yes, there may be additional costs when claiming a solar panel warranty.

These typically revolve around labor and service fees, particularly for troubleshooting, truck rolls (the cost of sending a technician to your home), and reinstalling replacement equipment.

That said, it’s hard to pin down an exact number for these costs. Rates vary depending on your solar installer’s pricing structure, the extent of the repair work, and truck roll fees, which fluctuate based on distance.

Because of this, I’d say this is one of the top questions to ask a solar company before committing. This will help you avoid unexpected costs down the road.

What Can Void a Solar Panel Warranty?

Aside from the issues that aren’t covered under warranty, certain actions may void your solar panel warranty altogether. Here are some examples:

  • Failure to register the warranty (some manufacturers require you to register your warranty within a certain timeframe after installation)
  • DIY installation
  • Unauthorized modifications of solar components (e.g. adding unauthorized third-party hardware, system tampering, etc.)
  • Removing or relocating panels
  • Transferring ownership (if the terms specify it)

What Happens to My Warranty if My Solar Company Goes Out of Business?

If your solar company (i.e. solar installer) goes out of business, your manufacturer warranties – product and performance – will still be valid. Since these warranties come directly from the manufacturer, not the installer, you’ll be dealing with the manufacturer directly for any claims.

However, your workmanship warranty disappears with the installer. 

If any installation-related issues arise, you’ll likely have to pay out of pocket for repairs that would have otherwise been covered. Some manufacturers may refer you to one of their certified partners, but labor costs will be your responsibility.

In some cases, if a new company buys out your original solar installer, they might choose to honor existing workmanship warranties – but this isn’t always a guarantee as it depends entirely on the new management. 

That means, if they don’t assume warranty obligations, you’ll remain responsible for any future repair costs.

Can I Transfer My Solar Panel Warranty?

If you’re moving and selling your home with solar panels, you might be wondering whether your solar panel warranty can be transferred to the new homeowner.

For most brands (including those we install at Avail Solar), the answer is yes. However, the process of transferring the warranty varies depending on the manufacturer.

Some warranties transfer automatically (meaning no action is needed as long as the system stays in place), while others require paperwork, proof of ownership transfer, and sometimes a processing fee. So, be sure to check with your solar installer or manufacturer.

Wrapping Up on Warranties for Solar Panels

By now, you know better what solar panel warranties cover, what can void them, and how long warranty periods last. That said, warranties are a crucial factor in choosing the right solar brand and installer, especially when you recall how coverage varies between manufacturers.

If you’re looking for a reputable solar company to trust with your home solar system, consider working with us at Avail Solar. We don’t just install solar – we stand by our work with a 30-year end-to-end warranty. More importantly, we design systems that can significantly cut your electric bills and turn those costs into long-term savings.

Request a quote today – or if you’d like to learn more about our warranties, call us to speak directly with one of our solar experts!

Posted in Solar 101

When it comes to battery vs generator, here’s my take – both are equally good. In fact, having both would be the perfect setup as each one fills the gaps where the other falls short (and you’ll see how as we go through the details). But for most homeowners, investing in both at once isn’t realistic. If you’re on a budget, you’ll likely have to choose one first. ​​That’s why I wrote this article – to lay out just the facts. I’ll go over every key difference between these backup power options so that by the end, you’ll have all the information you need to decide which one makes the most sense for your home right now.

Cycle Up Time

Cycle-up time refers to how long it takes for a backup power source to turn on and start delivering electricity once the grid goes down.

In this area, batteries have the advantage.

Backup batteries provide an automatic and instant switch, you won’t even notice power outage had taken place. No flickering lights, beeping appliances, or a disconnected Wi-Fi.

If you work from home, rely on medical devices, or just want to cook without interruptions, you’ll want to have batteries as your backup energy source.

Generators, on the other hand, take a while to make the switch.

If you have a portable one, you’ll have to start it manually, and that can mean fumbling with the pull cord in the dark, and sometimes, in bad weather. Even standby generators, which turn on automatically, take around 10 to 30 seconds to detect the outage and power up.

Noise

Batteries don’t make noise as they don’t involve any moving parts like motors, exhaust systems, or cooling fans.

Generators, on the other hand, are built like small engines. Just like cars, they burn fuel, whether that’s gasoline, propane, or natural gas, and that combustion process naturally makes noise.

Some models are louder than others, but even the “quiet” ones still produce a low, steady drone. If you’ve ever tried to have a conversation near a running generator, you know that hum isn’t something you can brush off.

In fact, many HOAs have noise restrictions, and a generator running through the night could get you more than just a few annoyed glances – maybe even a warning letter.

But even if you’re not in an HOA, do you really want to hear an engine rumbling outside your window? As they say, silence is a luxury most people don’t think about – until that generator rumbles and reminds them otherwise.

Power Reliability

This is an area that’s a lot to unpack. But if I had to sum it up, both backup batteries and generators are equally reliable – just in different ways.

Bear in mind that, when we talk about power reliability, what we’re really asking is, how long can each option keep supplying backup power? To compare them fairly, let’s break it down into two realistic matchups instead of making an “apples to oranges” mistake.

Solar-Charged Batteries vs. Portable Generators

A solar battery only stores the energy it captures while the sun is out – and that’s all you get for today until it recharges the next day. If it’s on cloudy days or during winter, the battery may store less energy than usual, meaning you’ll have a smaller backup supply when you need it.

A portable generator, on the other hand, runs as long as you have fuel on hand. If you’ve stocked up on gas or propane, you can keep it going for hours or even days.

But if you didn’t buy enough fuel beforehand, or worse – if you run out in the middle of the night – your only option is to find an open store and hope they still have some in stock.

Since both rely on a finite energy source, they’re equally good for short-term outages. But how much backup power you actually have will always depend on the conditions – whether it’s the weather for a solar battery or your fuel supply for a generator.

Grid-Charged Batteries vs. Standby Generators

Between the two, standby generators have a slight edge in long-term reliability. 

Since they’re connected to a natural gas line, they can run indefinitely without you lifting a finger. A grid-charged battery, however, only has what’s already stored. Once drained, it can’t recharge unless the grid is back.

That said, most outages last anywhere from a brief flicker to a few hours, and rarely do they stretch into days. Both batteries and standby generators can easily keep your home powered in those cases.

Cost

This is another area with multiple layers to peel back because cost isn’t just about the upfront price – although it’s always a good starting point.

Capacity and brand will always influence the cost, but if we talk about minimums, a whole-home 10 kWh solar battery can cost at least $9,000. Meanwhile, a standby generator can start as low as $5,000. 

In this regard, batteries are clearly more expensive than generators.

But the thing is, most homeowners today don’t see batteries as just an emergency backup. They view them as a way to slash those electricity costs, especially when paired with solar panels.

So, if we look at both systems not just as backup solutions but as complete energy independence setups, the picture changes:

  • Federal Tax Credit & Rebates: Solar batteries qualify for the federal tax credit, bringing down the cost greatly. Many states also offer rebates that further reduce the price. Generators don’t qualify for these incentives.
  • Maintenance Costs: Generators need regular maintenance – oil changes, filter replacements, and periodic servicing. Solar batteries? Virtually zero upkeep once installed.
  • Electricity Costs: A solar battery plus solar panel system can reduce your grid reliance to $0 over time (assuming your solar system offsets your full energy consumption) A generator, however, doesn’t cut your electricity costs at all as it only kicks in during an outage.
  • Time-of-Use (TOU) Rates: Many utilities charge higher rates during peak hours. Solar batteries store energy when rates are low and supply it when rates spike, saving you even more. Generators don’t store power – they just burn fuel. And on that note…
  • Fuel Costs: Generators constantly need fuel, whether it’s gasoline, propane, or natural gas. And with fuel prices fluctuating, that cost adds up over the years. A battery? No fuel needed.

Of course, the actual cost depends on factors like your energy use, local utility rates, and system size. But based on everything we’ve covered, solar batteries offer long-term savings and the potential to cut, or even eliminate, your electricity bill.

Lifespan

If you’re investing in a backup power system, you want to know how long it will last before you need to replace it. Both backup batteries and generators have long lifespans, but how long depends on how they’re used.

Solar batteries, particularly, lithium-ion models (which are popular today),  typically last 10 to 15 years – and that’s assuming daily use as part of your home’s energy system, not just occasional backup power. 

Standby generators, on the other hand, can last anywhere from 20 to even 40 years.

That seems like a clear win for generators, but here’s the thing – they’re only used for backup power, not daily energy storage.

And that’s an important distinction when comparing lifespans because ultimately, the discussion shifts to efficiency over time.

For starters, a lithium-ion battery can still operate at around 70% of its original capacity after 10 years, with little to no maintenance. That’s still very usable if you ask me. 

But a generator at year 40? That’s a big question mark. Because, whether it still produces the same amount of power by then depends entirely on how well you’ve maintained it over the decades.

Size and Space

For many homeowners, it’s not even about cost or reliability but whether there’s room for it. Because, if you live in a subdivision, for example, space limitation is a real factor to consider.

Generators are fairly compact, but they still need a dedicated space outdoors. A standby generator usually requires at least a few feet of clearance from your house, plus enough space for ventilation.

Even portable generators, while smaller, need to be stored somewhere when not in use and then moved outside when needed – but all is fine if you have a large yard. 

Otherwise, you’re better off choosing a solar battery. It is more compact, can be wall-mounted inside your garage or on an exterior wall, and takes up zero floor space.

Health & Safety

Solar batteries don’t pose any health risks because they don’t burn fuel or release emissions. 

Generators, however, do. And this is the case for portable generators, which release carbon monoxide (CO), nitrogen oxides (NOx), and particulate matter as they burn gas, propane, or diesel. In fact, carbon monoxide poisoning is a very big concern for homeowners in the U.S.

Then, there’s the matter of fire risks.

Solar-related fires are extremely rare and are almost non-existent. Generators, on the other hand, deal with highly flammable materials that can cause fires if improperly stored or leaks happen. 

Not to mention, generators themselves get hot when running, and if placed near flammable materials, they can become a fire hazard over time. This is precisely why generators must be placed and operated outside the house.

Final Thoughts on Battery vs Generator

Looking at everything we’ve covered, it may seem like solar batteries have the clear advantage – and in many ways, they do. The facts are just what they are. But that doesn’t mean generators aren’t a solid option.

They’ve been keeping homes powered for decades, and if a traditional backup solution works for you, there’s no reason to change that.

But if you’re looking for a system that not only provides backup power but also cuts your electricity costs, a solar battery + solar panel setup is the way to go.

At Avail Solar, we design and install custom solar setups that can offset your home’s energy consumption, helping you turn those rising electricity bills into long-term savings. We take care of everything, from planning to permits and paperwork, so you can switch to solar hassle-free.

Request a quote today or call us to speak with one of our energy experts.

Posted in Solar 101

Where your electricity comes from – whether from your own solar panels or straight from the grid – determines how much you pay for power. That’s where the concept of Front of the Meter vs. Behind the Meter comes into play.  These aren’t just buzzwords for describing energy sources. They have a bigger impact on your electricity bills and savings than you might think, especially when it comes to time-of-use rates, net metering, or battery storage. In this article, we’ll take a closer look at what these terms actually mean, why they matter to homeowners, and how FTM and BTM systems compare.

What Is a Behind the Meter System?

A Behind the Meter system is an energy system that generates power right on your property and delivers it directly to your home. That means, the energy produced gets consumed first before your meter ever records anything – hence, behind the meter.

BTM systems work simply and directly. Take the case of home solar systems, which is a BTM system popular among homeowners in Utah and across the U.S.

When the sun is shining, your panels produce electricity that your home uses immediately. If your system is paired with a battery, you can store surplus energy for later use.

Only when your solar production isn’t enough to meet your needs does your home pull electricity from the grid.

Therefore, with BTM systems, you actually buy less electricity from your utility company. And that results in a much smaller monthly bill.

This makes an even greater difference if you’re in a time-of-use (TOU) pricing arrangement. 

Instead of using grid energy during expensive peak hours (typically late afternoon to early evening), you can instead use stored solar power (via solar batteries) or net metering credits you’ve accumulated.

Here are common examples of BTM systems for homes:

  • Rooftop solar panels
  • Solar Panels + Battery Storage
  • Small wind turbines
  • Gas-powered generators
  • Residential fuel cells
  • Microgrids

I looked deeper into BTM systems and found that even U.S. tech giants like Apple and Ikea have installed extensive BTM systems to act as their own power suppliers and cut down energy expenses. So, if it works for them, it can work for you as well.

What Is a Front of the Meter System?

A Front of the Meter system is a power-generation system situated outside your property, operating on a much larger scale and requiring huge infrastructure investment. Think of power plants, solar farms, and wind farms, among many others.

This is the default system most of us rely on – electricity is produced at a centralized location, fed through the grid, and distributed to multiple users. Before reaching your home, it passes through your meter first – hence, front of the meter.

You might be wondering, if BTM systems exist, why do we still need FTM systems? 

The answer is simple. They provide a steady flow of energy when your BTM system isn’t generating enough, a sort of ‘safety net’.

But rather than seeing it as choosing one over the other, think of it as two systems working together to keep a single, larger energy system balanced…

When FTM systems struggle during peak demand, BTM systems help ease the load and reduce strain on the grid. On the other hand, when BTM production is insufficient, FTM systems can fill the gap.

Comparing Front of the Meter vs Behind the Meter Systems

Previously, we looked at BTM and FTM systems separately. Now, let’s take a different approach and compare them side by side in key areas where one clearly stands out over the other.

Immediate Savings on Your Energy Bill

Let’s say you go with solar as your BTM system. A home solar systems can cost as little as $0.08 kWh. 

Compare that to the electricity you buy from an FTM system (i.e. power from your utility company), where the average rate sits at $0.19 per kWh. 

Assuming the typical U.S. household consumption of about 900 kWh per month, installing a BTM system could slash your electricity costs by $99 per month. If you ask me, that’s already a big deal, especially when you look at how much that adds up over time.

Direct Ownership and Local Benefits

When you own a BTM system, you own your power source. And that brings benefits beyond just lower electricity bills.

For example, the solar tax credit, which I covered in my article on Form 5695, allows you to deduct up to 30% of your total solar installation cost from your taxes. You can also take advantage of RECs (Solar Renewable Energy Credits) and rebates from local utility companies.

Now, compare that to an FTM system, like a shared solar farm. You may still get benefits like bill credits and lower rates, but at the end of the day, the third party (i.e. whoever manages the farm) keeps most of the financial perks.

Flexibility in Energy Use

With a BTM system, you control how and when you use your energy.

Under net metering, for instance, if you generate more power than you use, your meter runs in reverse, and you earn credits for the extra electricity. You can then use these credits later to draw from the grid, whether at night or during high-demand hours.

Where net metering setups are unfavorable (California’s NEM 3.0, for example), having a BTM setup that involves adding energy storage (e.g. solar panels + solar battery) lets you store excess power instead of drawing from the grid.

That said, you won’t have this flexibility if you rely solely on an FTM system. You’ll be locked into your utility company’s schedule and pricing structure. And that’s not exactly ideal given how electricity rates rise every year.

Power Reliability and Availability

This is an area where I’d say FTM systems have the advantage.

As I mentioned, FTM systems operate on a much larger scale, and they have the capacity to provide a steady flow of electricity for household use, regardless of local conditions. 

Since the grid pulls from multiple energy sources (solar farms, wind, natural gas, hydro, etc.), it can balance supply and demand more effectively.

Meanwhile, some BTM systems – like solar without battery storage – can be impacted by local conditions. 

For example, solar panels generate less power on cloudy days or in winter months. If you don’t have battery storage, you’ll eventually have to pull electricity from the grid when solar production dips.

Choose Solar as Your Behind the Meter Energy System

Home solar systems have helped countless households save hundreds of dollars each year. And with incentives like tax credits and rebates making solar more affordable, it’s no surprise that more homeowners are making the switch.

If you want to start saving sooner rather than later, have a behind-the-meter (BTM) solar system installed. We, at Avail Solar, will handle all the paperwork and legwork, so you can transition to solar hands-off and stress-free.

Request a quote or call us today to speak with one of our solar experts

Posted in Solar 101

Forms, forms, forms. I bet nobody enjoys them, but some are just too valuable to ignore – Form 5695, for example.  This form is your ticket to claiming the solar tax credit, which helps you shave a huge chunk off your tax bill. And the good news? It’s not as complicated as it looks. In this article, I’ll walk you through what a form 5695 is, how to fill it out correctly, and other key details to make sure you claim your credit without any issues.

What is a Form 5695?

Form 5695 is the IRS tax form used to claim credits for your home solar panel investment. It also applies to other renewable energy upgrades such as solar water heaters, wind turbines, and other home energy efficiency improvements.

And just a bit of refresher: the specific credit you’re claiming here is the Residential Clean Energy Credit. 

Unlike a tax deduction, which lowers your taxable income, this credit directly reduces the amount of tax you owe.

There’s no maximum limit on how much you can claim. As of 2025, the credit covers 30% of your total eligible expenses. So, if your solar system costs $20,000, you’d be looking at a $6,000 tax credit.

That being said, the credit won’t stay at 30% forever. In 2033, it drops to 26%, then to 22% in 2034, and disappears entirely in 2035 unless extended by Congress.

Am I Eligible for the Residential Clean Energy Credit?

As great as this credit is, not every homeowner qualifies for it. So before rushing into the paperwork, make sure you meet the conditions first. The IRS provides full details in the Instructions for Form 5695, but I have them simplified for you below:

  • The system must be installed in a home you own in the U.S. Rental properties you don’t live in don’t qualify (business-related energy incentives follow different tax rules).
  • The system must be placed in service during the tax year you’re filing for (not just purchased).
  • Only new installations qualify. Used or secondhand equipment won’t count.
  • You must own the solar panels. If you’re leasing them or have a PPA, you’re not eligible.
  • You must have a tax liability.

Speaking of tax liability, since the solar tax credit is non-refundable, you won’t get a cash refund from the IRS if you don’t owe taxes.

However, you won’t lose the credit either. Instead, any unused portion carries forward to future tax years, meaning you can apply it against taxes owed in the following years until it’s fully used. 

Steps to Fill Out Form 5695 to Claim the Solar Tax Credit (2024)

If you use a tax preparer or accountant, they will handle this form for you. But if you’re filing your own taxes, you’ll need to fill out Form 5695 yourself as part of your tax return. Extra note: The steps I’ve outlined below only apply to solar installations, including solar panel systems and solar batteries. This guide also assumes you don’t have other renewable energy sources, like fuel cells or energy-efficient home improvements.

Step 1: Gather Essential Documents

Before starting Form 5695, gather everything you need for quick and accurate referencing. Here’s what you should have on hand:

Step 2: Enter the Total Cost of Your Solar System

The IRS bases your tax credit on the total cost of your solar system. Eligible costs typically include solar panels, inverters, and mounting equipment, among other solar system components, as well as labor.

Enter this cost on Line 1 of Form 5695, as well as on Line 6a.

However, if you installed a solar battery (3 kWh or larger), check “Yes” on Line 5a, enter the battery’s cost on Line 5b, and then add Lines 1 and 5b together. This new total should be placed on Line 6a.

Step 3: Calculate Your Credit Value The Residential Clean Energy Credit equals 30% of your total system cost. To calculate:

  • Take the amount from Line 6a and multiply it by 0.30 (30%).
  • Enter the result on Line 6b.

For example, if your system cost $20,000, your credit would be: $20,000 × 30% = $6,000

Step 4: Calculate Your Tax Liability & Maximum Claimable Tax Credit

While you may have calculated a 30% solar tax credit, you can only claim up to your total tax liability for the year.

To figure this out, look at Line 18 of your Form 1040 (this is your total federal income tax). Now, using the Residential Clean Energy Credit Limit Worksheet, follow these steps:

  1. Subtract all refundable tax credits (Worksheet Line 2) from your Form 1040, Line 18 amount (Worksheet Line 1)
  2. The remaining amount (Worksheet Line 3) is your actual tax liability – this is the maximum credit you can claim this year.

Now, return to Form 5695. Enter your maximum claimable credit on Line 14 (and Line 15)

Step 5: Calculate Carry-Over Credit (If Any) If your tax liability (Line 15) is lower than your total credit value (Line 6b), you cannot claim the full credit this year. Instead, you can carry forward the unused portion to next year’s taxes. To do this:

  • Subtract Line 15 from Line 6b.
  • Enter this amount on Line 16 – this is what you can apply to future tax years.

For example, if your total credit is $6,000 (Line 6b), but your tax liability is only $4,000 (Line 15), you’ll carry forward $2000 to future tax returns.

Step 6: Enter Your Claimable Tax Credit credit on Form 1040 Schedule 3

Once you’ve completed Form 5695, the final step is transferring your solar tax credit to your Form 1040, Schedule 3.

Simply, find Schedule 3, Line 5a and enter your credit amount from Form 5695, Line 15.

This ensures your tax credit is applied correctly when filing your return.

When Should I File Form 5659?

You must file Form 5695 with your tax return for the year your solar system was installed and became operational. That said, the purchase date does not matter – what matters is the installation/completion date.

So, if you bought your solar panels in November 2024 but the system was installed and activated in January 2025, you must claim the credit on your 2025 tax return, which is typically filed by April 2026.

If you forget to claim the credit, you can file an amended tax return (Form 1040-X) to correct the mistake and still receive the credit. I recommend you seek tax advice from a professional for the best course of action.

Do I Need to Submit Documentation With Form 5695?

No, you won’t need to submit documentation as the IRS doesn’t require you to attach receipts or proof with your Form 5695. However, I do recommend keeping them in case an IRS audit happens.

Can I Carry a Solar Tax Credit Forward for Future Tax Years?

Yes. If your solar tax credit is larger than what you owe, the IRS lets you carry forward the remaining balance to future tax years.

For example, if you qualify for a $6,000 credit but only owe $3,000 in taxes, you can apply the remaining $3,000 toward next year’s taxes.

This carry forward rule ensures you don’t lose any part of your credit, even if your tax bill is low.

Final Words on Form 5695

Filling out tax forms isn’t exactly exciting, but if it means getting thousands back from your solar investment, it’s definitely worth it. I hope I’ve laid everything out in a way that makes it easy for you to follow and claim your credit successfully.

That said, if you’re ever unsure or have specific concerns, I highly recommend consulting a tax professional.

And if you’re looking for more ways to make the most of solar, head over to the Avail Solar Blog, where my team and I share professional advice, practical tips, and step-by-step guides – all for free.

Posted in Solar 101

There’s no doubt about the benefits of solar and how it can save you hundreds on your electricity bills. Yet, I’ve heard many homeowners regret going solar – not because solar itself was a bad decision, but because they picked a solar company that overpromised and underdelivered. The good news is that you can spot a bad solar company just by asking them the right questions.  In this article, I’ll walk you through crucial questions to ask solar companies before you have your home solar system installed – questions that, being in the industry for quite some time, I can confidently say you won’t want to miss.

Questions About the Solar Company’s Track Record

If you can get a read on a solar company’s credibility, you’ll quickly see which ones keep their word and which ones will likely be a headache. I’d go as far as to say this is where your savings truly start – not just in dollars, but in avoiding costly mistakes.

What is Your Business License Number?

A business license number confirms that the company is legally registered to operate in your state. This may seem basic, but it tells you right away if they’re a real business or a fly-by-night operation.

This is also an indication that the solar company has proper insurance coverage that protects customers.

You can enter their business license number on your state’s official business registration website.  Once you input the number, you should be able to view details such as the company’s registration status, filing history, and whether they are current with required documentation.

How Long Have You Been in Business?

Experience matters, especially in the solar industry, which has had its ups and downs – a real “solar coaster,” as they say.

If they’ve been around for two to three years, that’s a good sign they’ve weathered industry changes and economic shifts. 

In addition to counting the years, I recommend you also ask the company how many systems they’ve successfully installed. This is a good baseline for gauging how reliable they are in getting the job done right.

Finally, think about warranties. A 25-year warranty means nothing if the company goes under in three years. On the other hand, a well-established business is more likely to be there when you need support down the line.

Have You Worked With My Local Utility Company?

Solar installation is more than just mounting panels on your roofs. Your solar company will also have to deal with your utility company for permits, inspections, and grid connection requirements.

If an installer has experience with your local utility, that means they’re already familiar with typical timeframes, as well as areas where issues usually arise and how to overcome them quickly. As a homeowner, you’ll have fewer unexpected delays and less hassle overall.

Questions About the Cost of Installation

Getting a solar quote gives you an idea of the overall installation cost, but treat it only as a starting point. Asking these questions below will help you see whether a company is being truly transparent or just putting on a sales pitch.

How Much Does A Solar System for My Home Cost?

A solar company should be able to justify their pricing. If they give a vague answer or push a system without explaining why, that’s a red flag.

On this note, you should also ask, why did you choose this specific system design and size for my home? Their answer should mention things like:

How Much Will I Save From Installing Solar?

In relation to the previous question, a good solar company should crunch the numbers and give you a clear picture of how much you’ll potentially save – after all, saving money is the whole point of going solar.

Ask for details like:

  • Your expected power bill after installing solar
  • Estimated monthly savings on your electricity bill
  • Payback period (how many years until your system pays for itself

I want to stress that this is a really important detail, especially if you’re planning to sell your solar home later on as buyers will want to know the savings your system can generate for them.

Am I Eligible for Solar Incentives?

Solar incentives are financial benefits designed to reduce the upfront cost of installing a solar system. They can come in the form of tax credits, state/local rebates, and net metering programs.

A reputable solar installer should be able to clearly explain which incentives apply to your location and, more importantly, guide you through the process of claiming them so you get the most financial benefit possible.

What Financing Options Do You Offer?

Some solar companies offer financing to accommodate customers who aren’t able to (or decide not to) purchase their home solar outright. 

If you come across one, consider their interest rates and fees, and see whether they’re more favorable compared to bank loans or third-party lenders.

Other companies may push arrangements like solar lease or Power Purchase Agreements (PAAs), which seem attractive given they offer no upfront costs for customers. 

However, they come with long-term downsides, one issue being that you never actually own your system. Even worse, these lock-in contracts are incredibly hard to exit. In fact, many people eventually search for ways to get out of a solar panel contract.

That said, I personally recommend buying your panels outright or financing through a loan – not leasing or a PPA.

Questions About Warranties

How Long Do the Warranties Run?

Asking about warranties helps you understand what’s covered, what’s not, and how long you can expect your solar system components to last. To give you an idea, here are typical product warranties that manufacturers offer:

  • Solar panels: 20-25 years
  • Inverters: Around 10 years
  • Solar batteries: 10-12 years

Your solar company should walk you through their warranty policies and explain what to expect if something falls outside of the coverage period.

Are There Warranties for Solar Installation/Labor?

Aside from warranties on solar panels and inverters, you should also ask about a workmanship warranty – this covers the actual installation work. It ensures that if something goes wrong due to poor mounting, wiring, or structural errors, the company will fix it at no cost to you.

Workmanship warranties usually last within 5 to 10 years, and cover issues like roof leaks from improper mounting, loose/faulty wiring, and bracket instability, among others.

Clarifying these details with the solar company will help you understand the specifics of what’s included in the terms. As much as I’m aware, damage from hail and fire is usually covered under your home insurance policy.

Do You Cover Repairs and Maintenance?

If your system is still under warranty, repairs and maintenance are usually covered by it. Still, I recommend getting a detailed explanation of these conditions from your solar company so you’ll know exactly how servicing is handled and when extra fees might apply.

That said, ask them how you’ll go about monitoring your system’s performance. This is important as warranty repairs are usually only acknowledged if you can show proof of the issue.

And don’t forget about solar panel cleaning. Some companies include this service in their maintenance package, while others leave it up to you.

Questions About Solar Installation Work

How Long Will the Installation Take?

Asking about the installation timeline helps you prepare for any possible disruptions at home and set realistic expectations about when you can start enjoying those solar savings.

This is also the perfect time for your solar company to tell you which aspects of the process are beyond their control. 

Permit approvals from local authorities and other bureaucracies can for sure slow things down. Still, your solar company should be upfront about this and give you an estimated completion time.

Finally, ask what happens if they don’t finish on time. Will there be compensation, or do they just extend the deadline? Either way, the bottom line is that your company should have clear procedures in place for any unexpected delays.

What Products Do You Install and Why?

Here, you’re asking about the brands and manufacturers they work with, which gives you an idea of the quality and reliability of the equipment. More specifically, ask about warranty coverage, efficiency ratings, and expected lifespan.

This should also give you the opportunity to do a quick online search or get a second opinion to verify the details and avoid those cheap, low-quality products that some companies use to cut costs.

Is Your Team Trained and Certified for Installation?

As I said earlier, solar installation goes beyond just mounting panels. It also involves electrical work, roof modifications, and strict compliance with safety standards. So, it’s extremely important for technicians to have the proper qualifications to get the job done right.

NABCEP (North American Board of Certified Energy Practitioners) is a widely recognized certification that many solar companies hold. While your provider may have other certifications, NABCEP is one you should definitely look for.

Will You Handle All the Necessary Paperwork?

Your solar project will require permits, interconnection agreements, and rebate applications. 

Some solar companies include this service as part of the package. For instance, at Avail Solar, we take care of everything, from design and permitting to installation and after-sales support.

Others, however, may treat this as an extra service and, charge an additional fee for it.

Either way, make sure to ask what your role will be regarding the paperwork – or if you have any role at all – so that you know exactly what to expect.

Who Do I Contact for Concerns, Issues, Servicing?

In most cases, solar is a one-and-done setup that requires very little maintenance. But issues can still arise over time, so you’ll want to know who to call for support.

That said, a solar company should be able to point you to a specific department or person for this specific purpose. 

More importantly, ask them how fast they usually respond to service requests. If they show some hesitation or give vague answers, it could mean they’re either stretched too thin, or worse, they don’t have a dedicated support team at all.

Questions About Future Expansion

Can I Add More Solar Panels Later On?

If you manage to keep your energy consumption low in the coming years, that’s great. But in most cases, energy needs rise as you add new appliances and upgrade your lifestyle – not to mention the rising electricity rates every year.

That said, it’s a wise move to ask your solar company whether your system can accommodate future expansion.

More specifically, ask your installer:

  • Can I fit more panels on my roof with the remaining space available? 
  • Will my inverter be able to handle extra panels if I expand later or would I need microinverters or optimizers?
  • What are my options if I need more power but have limited space?

Since you’ve already hinted at your long-term plans, a good solar company should guide you on efficient panel layouts and whether it makes sense to install an oversized inverter upfront to make expansion easier.

Can I Add a Solar Battery Later?

Even if you’re not ready to install a battery now, it’s worth asking whether your system will be battery-ready in case you want to add one later. Batteries provide backup power during outages and allow you to store excess energy for nighttime use.

Some key questions to ask:

  • Will my system be compatible with batteries later?
  • If I decide to add a battery, what modifications would I need?
  • Considering battery lifespan, would my panels outlast the battery?

Will I Need to Replace or Repair My Roof?

Solar panels are designed to last 25+ years – but your roof might not. 

The good news is that this is something addressed during the permitting process. If your roof is older or shows signs of wear, a reputable solar company will recommend the necessary repairs or actions you must do before installing solar.

If you plan to stay in your home long-term, it’s worth asking what happens if your roof needs repairs or replacement while your solar system is still in place, and how much it will cost you to remove and reinstall your panels.

Wrapping Up on Questions for Solar Companies

I’ve shared a long list of questions you should ask before signing a contract or committing to a solar company. Of course, you don’t have to ask every single one, but the more you do, the more peace of mind you’ll have – especially since this is a long-term commitment with your solar provider.

At Avail Solar, we’re more than happy to answer these questions, whether over the phone or in person. Our goal is to give homeowners a smooth, stress-free experience while helping them enjoy the savings and benefits of going solar.

If you’re ready to make the switch, request a quote or call us today!

Posted in Solar 101

You probably already know that solar batteries let you store extra energy for later use, whether it’s for nighttime or during power outages.  But when you start looking into energy storage options, you’ll quickly realize a variety of solar batteries out there. And, like most homeowners, you might find yourself wondering: “Which one is the best fit for my home?” In this article, I’ll guide you through the different types of solar batteries so you can make the right choice. I’ll also touch on other important comparisons to help you better understand what’s out there.

Types of Solar Batteries for Homes

When we talk about solar battery types, we’re really talking about battery chemistry – the materials inside the battery that determine its performance, lifespan, and efficiency.

Lithium-ion batteries

Lithium-ion batteries are today’s standard for home solar storage.

These batteries use lithium-based compounds in their electrodes and an electrolyte solution that allows efficient ion movement. With lithium’s high electrochemical potential, they have a high energy density – meaning they can store a lot of power in a small space.

And that’s good news for homeowners without extra storage space or those who simply want to make the most of the space that they already have. 

But apart from space efficiency, here are other reasons why they’re perfect for home use:

  • They’re lightweight and compact, making installation easy, even on walls.
  • They have a high depth of discharge (DoD), usually 90% or more. So, you can use almost all of the stored energy without any issues.
  • With proper use, most last over 10 years without the need for frequent maintenance.

Lithium-ion batteries aren’t a single type, though. 

You’ll come across different subtypes, such as LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate), NMC (Nickel Manganese Cobalt), and LCO (Lithium Cobalt Oxide), among many others.

If you have to choose among these, go for LiFePO4. It has the longest lifespan and can resist thermal runaway – a dangerous chain reaction where overheating leads to fires. In other words, it has zero fire risks, making it safe and reliable for home use.

NMC and LCO may have higher energy densities, but they degrade faster and are more prone to overheating.

As with anything, lithium-ion batteries have a drawback – cost. You’ll be looking at an upfront investment of at least $9,000 for a unit, which isn’t exactly small change.

Lead Acid Batteries

Lead-acid batteries are a much older technology that was once the standard for solar storage. They still work for a lot of applications, including DIY solar setups, but they’ve been largely replaced by lithium-ion.

Why? First, lead-acid batteries have a shorter lifespan, typically lasting five years or less. They require frequent maintenance, as water levels inside must be checked and refilled. Additionally, they take up significantly more space and are much heavier.

And the list doesn’t stop there. Lead-acid batteries need to be charged more often, and their depth of discharge is lower, meaning you get less usable energy

That said, they do come at a lower upfront cost, around $5,000. But when you factor in the maintenance and drawbacks, lithium-ion is definitely the better investment.

To be fair, lead-acid batteries aren’t entirely obsolete and, as I said, are still widely used today. 

Car batteries, for example, are made of lead acid. They’re great at delivering short bursts of energy, which makes them ideal for starting engines. This very characteristic makes them less suited for solar applications where energy needs to be processed over sustained periods.

One advantage they do have over lithium-ion? They can handle a wider range of temperatures, including extreme cold, where lithium-ion struggles.

Are there Other Types of Solar Batteries?

Yes. Beyond lithium-ion and lead-acid battery types, there are a few other battery types. However, they aren’t particularly suitable for homes.

Nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) batteries exist, but they’re used primarily in industrial or aviation applications. One major reason for this is that cadmium is highly toxic, making it dangerous for residential use.

Two interesting developments in solar battery technology to keep an eye on, however, are saltwater batteries and flow batteries.

Both solutions use non-toxic electrolytes, making them safer and more environmentally friendly. Even so, in their current state, saltwater batteries don’t yet match the energy density of lithium-ion, while flow batteries require large tanks that aren’t practical for home installation.

Only time will tell when these solutions will be perfected for mainstream use. But for now, lithium-ion still dominates the residential solar battery space.

DC vs AC-Coupled Solar Batteries

When discussing solar battery types, another aspect to consider is how the battery connects to the solar system. This brings us to the DC- vs. AC-coupled comparison.

Unlike our earlier discussion on battery chemistries, which focused on which type is better, this comparison focuses on which battery setup works best for your situation – are you installing solar batteries along with a new solar system, or are you adding one to an existing system?

On one hand, a DC-coupled solar battery connects directly to the solar panels. 

The energy flows from the panels into the battery, then gets converted into AC power for use in the home. Since the power isn’t converted multiple times, this setup is slightly more efficient, making it the standard choice for new solar installations.

An AC-coupled battery, on the other hand, connects after the solar inverter.

The solar panels send energy to the home first, and any excess is converted into DC power for storage. Later, when the battery discharges, it converts the stored energy back into AC power.

This double conversion causes minor efficiency losses, but AC-coupled batteries are easier to add to existing solar systems.

Backup vs. Consumption-Only Batteries

Another thing worth discussing is backup vs. consumption-only batteries, which, in a bird’s-eye view, refers to battery types based on function.

A backup battery functions exactly as it’s named – it provides backup power during grid outages, much like a generator. This is how solar batteries have traditionally been viewed by homeowners.

A consumption-only battery, on the other hand, isn’t meant for backup (hence, why they’re also called “no-backup battery”). Instead, it stores excess solar power for later use, primarily to help homeowners avoid drawing from the grid.

At a glance, it seems like consumption-only batteries are pointless because don’t backup batteries serve the same purpose?

The thing is, consumption-only batteries were made for homeowners dealing with unfavorable net metering policies, for example, California’s NEM 3.0 net metering policy, which took effect in 2023. 

This policy slashed compensation for excess solar energy sent to the grid by around 75%, meaning homeowners now receive far less credit for their surplus power.

With a consumption-only battery, homeowners can choose the “self-consumption” path, instead of selling excess energy for a much smaller compensation.

And since consumption-only batteries don’t have backup capability – meaning the setup is much simpler – they come at a lower cost, making them a lot more accessible for many homeowners.

Gain Full Control of Your Home’s Energy With Solar Batteries

With Avail Solar, you get a team of solar experts to handle every aspect of your transition to home solar energy – including installing the right solar battery to suit your specific household energy needs.

We only install solar batteries that are proven and sourced from trusted manufacturers. And to ensure you’re making an informed decision, we’ll walk you through the numbers so you can fully understand the return on investment for your purchase.

Request a quote or call us today to speak with one of our solar professionals!

Posted in Solar 101

Just because solar panels need sunlight to generate power doesn’t mean they’re useless after dark. In this article, I’ll walk you through how solar panels remain part of the energy cycle even at night – and the ways they can still help power your home once the sun goes down.  

Do Solar Panels Work at Night?

Solar panels don’t work at night – that’s the simple answer. Solar panels use a process called the “photoelectric effect,” where sunlight hits the panel and excites electrons to create an electrical current. So, without sunlight, there’s no energy to produce.

If we were to be a bit more technical, the reality is that any source of light can be absorbed by solar panels to generate electricity – streetlights and moonlight, for example. 

However, they’re not remotely as powerful as direct sunlight. They don’t even come close to reaching the minimum threshold to get your inverters to work, let alone power your home.…

How Do Homes With Solar Panels Still Have Power at Night?

While your solar panels “sleep” at night, solar energy continues to work and benefit you via these two methods:

Solar Batteries

With solar batteries, any excess energy your solar panels generate during the day can be captured and stored, ready to run your appliances, lights, and electronics later at night. 

It works much like a water tank, storing up water for emergencies or when the supply line is interrupted.

Don’t worry about producing “excess energy.” As far as I know, solar systems are designed with a conservative approach in mind – at least that’s how we do things here at Avail Solar when we plan for and install home solar systems.

This means your solar panels will generate excess energy on particularly sunny days, and throughout the year, you’ll build up a positive net energy balance that helps offset low production on cloudy days and seasonal changes.

Speaking of seasonal changes, solar batteries also help you make the most of time-of-use rates.

In winter, for instance, when sunlight is weaker and solar production drops, you can charge your battery during off-peak hours (usually late at night) when electricity is cheaper. You can then use that stored energy during peak hours, on top of what little your solar panels generate during the day.

When you factor in a solar battery’s lifespan, on top of the advantages we just discussed, it’s an investment that really pays off over time.

Rolling back a few years ago, many of our customers started asking whether we also installed batteries – and that told me they saw exactly how valuable this addition could be for their homes.

Net Metering

Net metering is a pricing arrangement where you send excess energy back to the grid, and in exchange, you earn “energy credits” from your utility company.

So, at night when your solar panels aren’t producing, you can use those credits to pull power from the grid without paying the full price – thanks to the excess energy your solar panels generate during the day.

In that sense, the grid serves as a sort of storage system that works just like a solar battery, although it operates on a different scale and with different mechanisms in place.

If I had to point out a difference that could be a deal breaker for many, it’s that with net metering, you’d still be subject to any price increases your utility imposes. 

Whereas with a solar battery added to a solar system that’s bought outright or financed (not leased or under a PPA contract), your investment remains at a flat rate for years, which means more predictable savings.

Are There Any Developments in Nighttime Solar Technology?

How awesome would it be if solar panels worked just as well at night as they do during the day, right? We’re not really there yet, but attempts have been made to make nighttime solar panels a reality.

Professor Jeremy Munday, one of the researchers at UC Davis who have explored the use of thermoradiative cells, explained that they function much like how typical PV cells would, but only in reverse…

Instead of absorbing sunlight, these cells would capture infrared radiation at night and convert it into electricity. 

So far, they’ve successfully generated power, but more refinements are needed before they become practical for large-scale use. That means, for now, the best ways to ensure reliable solar power at night are solar batteries and net metering.

Other Ways to Make the Most of Solar for Nighttime Use

Being one who likes to dig into all the possibilities and juice out every bit of value, here are a few ways you can really maximize the two main options – solar battery use and net metering – to make your solar system work harder for you at night.

Regular Solar Panel Cleaning

Dirt and dust can build up on your panels over time, which can impact how much energy your panels generate, ultimately affecting how much is stored for nighttime use. 

We’ve covered how to properly clean your solar panels in a previous article, and trust me, it’s likely easier than you might think.

Optimize Energy Consumption

One of the simplest tips to mention, but often hard to put into practice, is using your energy wisely. Consider how often the TV is left on when no one’s watching, or how much power your air conditioning unit consumes when it’s running in a room that’s completely unoccupied.

If you could track these habits, you’d realize how much excess solar energy you could be storing on your battery – or even selling back to the grid via net metering.

To get a clearer picture, you can review your load profile to identify where and when you’re using the most energy.

Other ways to optimize include investing in programmable appliances (such as smart thermostats) and using Energy Star-rated devices, which are more energy-efficient.

Monitor Your System’s Performance

Many home solar systems come with apps or dashboards that track energy production and storage. By keeping an eye on these metrics, you can quickly spot any issues and have them addressed by a professional asap, ensuring your system runs smoothly and generates the most power possible.

If you choose microinverters for your system, you’ll be able to keep tabs on each panel individually. On the other hand, if you’re sticking with the traditional string inverter setup, you’ll need to invest in power optimizers to be able to track each panel’s performance on its own.

Enjoy Solar Savings Even at Night

As I mentioned, just because your solar panels are in sleep mode at night doesn’t mean the savings stop when the day ends.

At Avail Solar, we create a solar design that takes advantage of net metering arrangements and maximizes your solar battery investment, so you can slash those electric bills and turn them into savings instead.

Request a quote today or reach out to one of our solar experts!

Posted in Solar 101

String inverters have long been the standard in residential solar systems. However, microinverters – a technology that came a bit later – are quickly gaining popularity as more homeowners realize their significant benefits.  The question is, should you jump on the microinverter bandwagon or would you be better off sticking with the traditional inverter setup? In this article, I’ll take you deeper into what a microinverter is, how it works, and its pros and cons to help you make sense of it all and decide whether it’s the right choice for your home.

What Is a Microinverter and How Does It Work?

A microinverter is a small device attached to each solar panel in a photovoltaic (PV) system. It converts the direct current (DC) electricity generated by the panels into alternating current (AC) electricity that your home can use.

Doesn’t a string inverter function the same way? Of course. However, unlike traditional string inverters, which handle this conversion for all panels collectively, microinverters work on a panel-by-panel basis…

This means that every panel converts its DC output to AC independently, directly addressing the primary limitation of traditional string inverters: if the central inverter fails, the entire solar panel system stops working.

In contrast, with microinverters, the rest of your system keeps operating even if one unit breaks down.

With that said, microinverters certainly come with several advantages, but like anything else, they also have their downsides.

Advantages of Microinverters

Localized Failure

Inverters tend to experience the most stress in a solar system and, therefore, are the components most likely to face performance issues or malfunctions.

In the case of microinverters, if one unit malfunctions or fails, the rest of your solar system continues to operate. You can still power your home with the energy harnessed by other panels, free of energy interruption.

On the other hand, if a central string inverter fails, the entire system goes offline until it’s repaired or replaced.

So, the real benefit of microinverters then is that they buy you time – time to address and repair any faulty units without losing power, and without experiencing the downtime that comes with waiting for service.

Flexibility for System Expansion

The thing with string inverters is that they’re designed to handle a set number of panels, and their capacity is usually determined when your system is first installed…

This means if you start with a smaller solar system today (perhaps due to budget constraints or limited space) you might not be able to expand your system that easily. 

With microinverters, you have a “decentralized” system that allows you to add panels in the future without thinking about overloading. As each panel gets its own microinverter, there’s no need for major upgrades, replacements, or rewiring of any existing equipment.

Flexibility for Panel Placement

Not all parts of your roof get the same amount of sunlight. Some sections receive less sunlight due to their direction, while others have steep angles or obstructions that cast partial shade, thereby reducing panel efficiency.

This becomes an issue with central string inverter setups since the weakest-performing panel drags down the efficiency of the entire string.

Microinverters, on the other hand, eliminate this problem by decoupling the panels. So, if one panel is shaded, only that panel’s output is affected – every other panel continues to produce energy at full capacity.

This means you don’t have to stress about forcing every panel into ideal conditions (although that’s always preferable). Microinverters ensure that each panel operates independently and always performs at its highest possible efficiency.

Compliance With Module-Level Rapid Shutdown Requirements

Module-level rapid shutdown (RSD) is a safety feature designed to de-energize individual solar panels quickly in the event of an emergency, such as a fire

Essentially, it ensures responders, maintenance workers, or anyone accessing the roof can do so safely without the risk of high-voltage electricity from the panels. For this reason, RSD has become mandatory in many U.S. states, including California, Texas, and Michigan.

Microinverters inherently meet module-level RSD requirements because they operate at the panel level – unlike string inverters which require add-on components for compliance.

Panel-Level Monitoring Capability

Microinverters let you monitor the performance of each individual panel, making it easy to identify which panels are malfunctioning or underperforming.

This level of detail simply isn’t possible with string inverters, which only provide system-wide or string-level data.

That said, if you’re someone who’s particular about individual panel performance – or deeply committed to going for the most optimal route possible (just like I am) – go with microinverters instead of string inverters.

Longer Lifespan

Let me preface this by saying that lifespan definitely depends on factors like component quality and environmental conditions. That’s why many homeowners report inverters breaking down as early as two years.

But for the purpose of comparing lifespans, let’s look at warranties instead.

Microinverters come with warranties of 20 to 25 years, while string inverters usually have warranties of 8 to 12 years. This means that with microinverters, you can expect to avoid the hassle of replacements for a long time.

Disadvantages of Microinverters

Higher Upfront Costs

Microinverters are built with a different technology and design compared to string inverters – and that alone drives up the price. 

Besides that, in a more practical sense, there also comes a point where using microinverters might actually exceed the cost of applying the traditional string inverter system.

Let’s crunch some numbers with a hypothetical scenario where you’re installing a 4 kW solar system – 12 solar panels, for example. Assuming the cost of each microinverter is around $300, for 12 panels, you’re looking at a total of $3,600 for microinverters.

Compare that with the cost of single string inverter capable of handling all panels of the 4 kW system, around $2,000, and you would save about $1,600 by choosing the string inverter setup.

Although, I want to make it clear that this is a very simplified example. 

In reality, there are many factors to consider when comparing the two cost-wise, such as the complexity of installation, RSD requirements, personal preference, and so on – all of which are things I and the Avail Solar team takes into account before settling on either option. 

Potential Challenges With Maintenance

As I mentioned, microinverters come with warranties reaching up to 25 years, which says a lot about their lifespan, reliability, and low-maintenance features.

But here’s the thing. A microinverter can still fail, perhaps due to issues like suboptimal connections or manufacturing defects (this can happen even with reputable brands).

And since each panel has its own microinverter, it’s hypothetically possible for failures to occur at different times – one might fail today, another in a few months, and so on…

In this case, the cost isn’t the issue as the warranty will take care of it. The real concern is the inconvenience of having to call for service multiple times.

(Again, this doesn’t happen often, but it can absolutely happen.)

In contrast, with a string inverter setup, only one unit is needed for the entire array, which means you typically only need to call for maintenance once – usually, only if there’s a major issue with the inverter itself.  

Efficiency Losses in Battery Storage

Remember that microinverters work by converting the DC into AC electricity at the panel level. This means electricity generated by your solar system is already in AC form.

But, since most solar batteries are designed to store DC power, you would need an AC-coupled battery inverter to convert the AC back into DC for storage.

This means energy goes through three conversion stages, resulting in more energy loss compared to just two conversion stages in a traditional string inverter setup. 

When to Choose Microinverters

Personally, I’d recommend you choose microinverters only if:

  • Your roof/property gets a lot of shading, whether from trees, nearby buildings, or other obstructions; and
  • You’re planning to install a relatively small system say, 3 kW to 5 kW

Outside of these scenarios, you may want to consider a traditional string inverter setup with optimizers, which works just as well as microinverters in terms of improving shade tolerance and tracking individual panel performance.

Generally speaking, the costs between the two inverter technologies can be pretty similar. However, the nuances – such as your specific shading conditions, system size, and future expansion plans – will greatly influence which choice is better for your home. 

Need a Certified Solar Panel Installer to Help You Decide?

Making the right decision doesn’t have to be overwhelming when you have a solar expert guiding you throughout the solar transition process.

Before installing either microinverters or string inverters, we at Avail Solar first look at your energy consumption needs, long-term goals, and the specific conditions of your home. Once we have all that information, we make a decision that best fits your situation – eliminating all the guesswork from the process.

Request a quote today or give us a call to speak with one of our solar experts!

Posted in Solar 101

Just as we find the need to cook at the right temperature or drive the most fuel-efficient route, getting the most out of our solar panels requires more than just pointing them in any sunny direction. In this article, I’ll guide you through the best orientation and angle for solar panels, how they affect energy production, and what you can do to make the most of your setup even if your roof isn’t perfectly positioned.

What Direction Should Solar Panels Face?

In terms of orientation, the best direction for solar panels is south. This position is considered optimal for regions in the northern hemisphere as it allows solar panels to capture direct, consistent, and intense sunlight for most of the day.

Think back to those globe models in school and recall how the Earth leans to one side – this tilt represents the Earth’s axis. If you shine a flashlight on the globe, you’ll notice the light (the sun) focuses more on one side, specifically the southern half of the sky.

This tilt explains why the sun appears to move across the southern part of the sky during the day, and hence, why south-facing panels tend to “see” the sun better than other directions.  Let’s explore how orientation affects solar production in more detail.

How Orientation Impacts Solar Production

Orientation (also known as azimuth in some cases) refers to the direction your solar panels face, which is primarily north, south, east, or west. It could also be a combination of these primary directions (e.g. southwest, southeast), depending on the orientation of your roof. 

To understand how orientation impacts production, let’s examine the four primary directions.

South Facing

As I mentioned earlier, south-facing panels are the gold standard for solar energy production in the northern hemisphere. This way, solar panels are aligned with the sun’s path, capturing sunlight for the longest period each day.

Data from the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA) supports this. From the diagram above, south-facing panels generate more annual energy production compared to west- and east-facing by approximately 15%.

West Facing

West-facing panels aren’t far behind in terms of efficiency. In fact, an interesting study showed that south-facing panels slightly oriented a bit westward during the summer produced 40% more energy than panels facing directly south.

Still, west-facing panels generally don’t capture as much sunlight as south-facing ones do over the course of an entire day. However, they do benefit from prolonged exposure to intense afternoon sunlight.

This makes them an excellent choice for regions with peak energy hours starting as early as 12 noon (New York and Florida, for example). 

If you live in such areas, west-facing panels can help offset your energy usage during these costly peak hours by generating more power in the afternoon – an effective way to reduce your electricity bills.

East Facing

East-facing panels ​​generally produce less energy overall compared to south- or west-facing panels. They capture direct sunlight in the morning, but the duration of intense sunlight is shorter compared to the afternoon.

That said, they’re still a good option for settings with high early daytime energy needs. This might not apply to a typical household, but it surely does make a difference for commercial operations like factories, farms, and healthcare facilities.

Remember that solar panels work even without direct sunlight (I’ve touched on this in a previous article), which means that if you have panels perched on an east-facing roof, they would still generate energy in the afternoon.

North Facing

North-facing panels are considered the least ideal because, as I mentioned, the sun’s path is primarily in the southern sky, meaning these panels receive significantly less direct sunlight.

However, similar to east-facing panels, this doesn’t mean they won’t produce energy –just that their output will be lower. If your roof only supports a north-facing installation, there are workarounds you can consider, and we’ll get to that later on.

 

How Angle Affects Solar Production

The angle or tilt is basically how steeply your panels are angled relative to the ground. This angle affects how directly sunlight hits the panels.

Earlier, we discussed how the Earth is tilted on its axis. Tilting your solar panels is necessary to compensate for the Earth’s tilt, positioning them as close to a 90-degree angle with the sun as possible, so more sunlight can be absorbed directly.

A general rule of thumb is to tilt your panels at an angle equal to your home’s latitude. 

For example, if you live in Utah, with a latitude of about 40°, your panels should be tilted at 40° as well. The further you deviate from the ideal angle, the less sunlight your panels will capture, and the less efficient they’ll be at generating energy.

Now, does this ideal tilt change? Yes it does, and it changes with the seasons.

In winter, when the sun is lower in the sky, a steeper tilt is more effective, while a shallower angle works better in the summer. 

You won’t usually find panels that are completely vertical or entirely flat. Although interestingly, the same study I mentioned earlier found that even horizontal panels – those lying flat – can be surprisingly efficient under certain conditions.  

However, it’s standard practice for certified solar installers to set the angle to a fixed position calculated to be the most optimal for your home’s energy needs throughout the year.

Which Matters More, Orientation or Angle?

Between orientation and angle, orientation has a slightly greater impact on energy production, and thus, matters more.

A well-tilted panel facing the wrong direction won’t perform as efficiently as a south- or west-facing panel with a suboptimal tilt.

Other Ways to Maximize Solar Production

Even if we know the best direction and angle our panels should face to maximize solar production, we’re ultimately limited by how our roofs are designed and oriented.

If you have a flat roof, you’re in luck, as you may have more flexibility to adjust the panels to the optimal position. The same goes for those with extra ground space to install ground-mounted panels.

The good news is that maximizing solar production is way more than just getting the perfect angle and direction

Here are a few ways that I find are the most effective in helping you squeeze out more energy from your system.

Solar Battery

With roofs in different directions, some of your panels will peak in the morning (east-facing), while others peak in the afternoon (west-facing). 

Instead of wasting that excess energy during low-consumption times, a solar battery allows you to store it for evening use, when everyone’s home and demand spikes.

Solar Panel Cleaning

Regardless of which direction your panels are facing, things like dirt, pollen, and bird droppings can accumulate and reduce your panels’ efficiency. 

Consider cleaning your solar panels more often especially if you live in an area with wildlife or during pollen-heavy season.

Minimizing Shade

Even if your solar panels are perfectly positioned to face south, their efficiency can take a hit if obstructions like trees or buildings cast shadows over them for long periods.

And in many cases, you’re better off relocating the panels to a spot with more consistent sunlight, even if it’s not the ideal orientation.

For overhanging branches causing shade, you can simply trim them to let sunlight pass through.

But if relocating or trimming isn’t practical, consider pairing your panels with microinverters or power optimizers. This way, shaded panels won’t drag down the performance of your entire solar system.

There’s More to Solar Design Than Just Direction

By now, you know that getting the most out of your solar system involves more than just direction…

At Avail Solar, we take a detailed approach – considering panel efficiency, system size, and all the other factors we’ve discussed – to create a solar design that fits your home and energy needs.

Beyond that, we offer end-to-end services, guiding you from the planning stage through installation and ongoing support, to make your transition to solar as smooth and stress-free as possible.

Request a quote today and start saving with solar energy!

Posted in Solar 101

Just because solar panels are the first thing you see perched on a roof or in someone’s backyard doesn’t mean they’re the only components of a solar PV system… There’s actually a lot more going on behind the scenes to harness the sun’s energy and convert it into electricity your home can use. In this article, I’ll go into all the parts that come together to make a solar PV system work. By the end, you’ll have clear expectations of what’s involved, so you can better plan for adding solar to your existing home – or a new one if you’re building from scratch.

What are the Components of a Solar System?

The primary components of a solar PV system are as follows:
  • PV Panels
  • Racking and Mounting
  • Inverter
  • Solar Battery
In addition to the parts of a solar system mentioned above, we’ll also tackle other essential solar components, including those that ensure homeowner safety, connect your system to the electric grid, and protect your solar panels for the long haul.

Solar PV Panels

A solar photovoltaic (PV) panel is a component that converts sunlight into electricity. Each panel is made up of smaller units called solar cells, usually made of silicon. 

When sunlight hits these cells, it excites electrons and creates an electric current – a process known as the photovoltaic effect.

Simply put, solar panels serve as the “engine” of your system. They’re arguably the most important part of the setup because, without them, there would be no electricity generated – just like a car wouldn’t run without an engine.

Given how much energy a typical household uses, you’ll rarely see just one panel on a roof. Instead, multiple panels are combined to form what’s called a solar array

In fact, for an average home in the U.S., a system usually consists of 15 to 20 panels. As to how many you can fit on your roof, it depends on many factors like your panels’ power and efficiency and your usable roof space.

When it comes to panel types, monocrystalline panels are generally more efficient than polycrystalline panels, though the latter tend to be more budget-friendly. There are also thin-film panels, which are lightweight and cost-effective, but are generally the least efficient option. Most residential solar panels are about 5 to 6 feet tall, 3 feet wide, and range from 1.5 to 2 inches in thickness. As to weight, a single panel can weigh around 40 pounds. Keep in mind that the exact dimensions and specifications can vary depending on the brand and model.

Solar Panel Racking and Mounting

PV racking and mounting systems are the hardware that secures your solar panels in place, either on your roof or on the ground. They keep your panels stable even in tough weather conditions like wind or snow, and maintain the correct angle for optimal sunlight exposure.  Roof Mounted Systems Roofs often leave large, unutilized spaces that homeowners would rather put to better use – hence why many opt to install solar panels on their roofs. Apart from the ample space, the roof’s elevation and excellent sun exposure make it an even more ideal spot for solar panels. Roof-mounted solar panels can be installed in four ways: Rail-Based Mounting System In this setup, rails are installed parallel to the roof surface, and solar panels are attached to these rails with clamps. The rails are secured to the roof with mounting brackets that are drilled into the roof, as you can see in many asphalt shingle roofs, tile roofs, and flat roofs.  Rail-Less Mounting System As the name implies, rail-less systems do away with bulky rails. Instead, the solar panels are directly attached to the roof using brackets or clamps. It’s something you’ll want to consider if you have a metal roof or shingle roof, or if aesthetics or weight reduction is a concern.

Standing Seam Clamps

Standing seam metal roofs are arguably the best type of metal roof for solar panel installations. Here, clamps attach directly to the seams of the metal roof, without the need for any drilling.

While most mounting systems involve drilling into the roof, the “damage” is often minimal, especially when done by a certified solar installer. And if a roof leak does occur, a reputable solar installer will likely cover the repairs under their solar workmanship warranty, just as we do at Avail Solar.

Ground Mounting Equipment

Ground mounting is the way to go when roof mounting isn’t ideal or practical. For instance:

  • Your roof is not structurally sound enough to support your panels, 
  • You have a roof with many irregularities (chimneys, multi-level sections, etc.), leaving less usable surface.
  • Your roof is shaded by trees, buildings, or other obstructions.

Popular systems for ground-mounted solar panels include the following: Fixed-Tilt Mounting System This system uses aluminum or galvanized steel framing to securely hold solar panels at the top while providing a stable base on the ground. However, panels are locked at a fixed angle, just as roof-mounted systems are tied to the roof’s orientation. The only difference is that the angle of ground-mounted panels can be independently optimized to capture the most sunlight year-round. Bear in mind that ground preparation will be necessary. Vegetation must be cleared, and the land graded for stability before steel posts are driven into the soil or set in concrete footings. Tracking Mounting System This setup is structurally similar to fixed-tilt setups but differs in functionality. Here, the panels move throughout the day, following the sun’s path to maximize energy production. With that said, additional components are required, such as motorized trackers and control systems, which add to the complexity and cost. Pole Mounting In areas with steep terrain or significant elevation differences, pole mounting may be the best solution. In this system, panels are mounted on single or multiple poles, rather than a large racking system spanning the entire array. Because the poles are installed at individual points on the ground, there’s no need to prepare large sections of land.  However, you’ll have to see that the structural design is sufficient so the poles and footings can withstand external forces and remain stable.

Ballasted Mounting System In a ballasted system, your solar panels are held in place by weight – typically dirt, gravel, or concrete – rather than being anchored into the ground. It’s a great alternative where digging is not practical due to poor soil conditions.

Inverter

Your solar panels generate direct current (DC) electricity, while most of our household appliances run on alternate current (AC). The inverter is the key component responsible for flipping this DC into usable AC. That means, without an inverter, the energy from your panels wouldn’t be suited for home use, and thus, useless. For most residential solar setups, a single inverter is usually sufficient to handle the system’s capacity. However, larger or more complex designs may require multiple inverters. The type of inverter you choose also plays a role since different models come with varying power capacities. Among the types of inverters, string inverters are the most common for home solar. You’ll typically find them installed near the main electrical panel.

They work by linking all your solar panels in series (a “string”) and converting the DC electricity from the whole string at once, which makes installation pretty easy and straightforward. One downside, however, is that the performance of the entire string depends on the weakest panel. If one panel is shaded or dirty, the output of the whole string is reduced. Additionally, you won’t be able to monitor the performance of individual panels – only the string as a whole. Even so, it shouldn’t be a deal breaker, and I personally wouldn’t worry about it too much.  As long as your panels get plenty of sunlight, stay free of shade, and are cleaned regularly, this issue is unlikely to cause headaches, and your string inverter should perform efficiently.But if you’re really concerned about those performance issues, you might want to consider adding power optimizers to each of your solar panels, or opting for microinverters instead.

A solar battery stores the energy your solar panels generate for use later. Lithium-ion batteries in particular can last up to 10 to 15 years and are basically maintenance-free.

Now, solar batteries are not mandatory. In fact, many homeowners have successfully cut their electric bills without ever needing one. 

So, when would you actually need a solar battery? Here’s what I usually tell homeowners who ask me that very question:

  • When net metering arrangements in your area aren’t favorable
  • When time-of-use (TOU) pricing rates apply, and peak-hour electricity rates are too expensive (I’ve touched on load profiling and TOU rates in a previous article)
  • If your goal is to go off-grid and fully achieve energy independence

Given their long lifespans and the benefits they offer, solar batteries are a really good investment on top of your solar panels, and I’d highly recommend you add one to your home solar setup if your budget allows.

Other Solar Components

Disconnect Switch

A disconnect switch is a device that shuts off the flow of electricity in your solar PV system. It’s particularly useful in emergency situations, as well as during maintenance or repairs, to prevent electrocution and damage to your equipment.

For safety purposes, they are usually installed in easily accessible locations, such as near the inverter or on the exterior of your home.

Utility Meter

The utility meter measures the electricity flowing between your home and the grid. In a solar PV system, particularly under a net metering arrangement, this meter is often a bi-directional meter or net meter.

This component not only lets you earn credits for the excess electricity your panels send back to the grid but also keeps a record of how much energy you’re exporting.

Hail-Protection Accessories

In hail-prone areas in places like Texas and Oklahoma, accessories such as roll-up shutters and hail netting are commonly used to protect solar panels from hail damage. Solar panels are already rated to resist hail, and using these accessories should give you more peace of mind.

Customized Solar System Design for Your Home

Knowing what your solar investment includes is one thing, but ensuring your system can meet your energy needs, cut your electricity costs, and deliver big savings is another.

With Avail Solar, you’ll have a team of personal solar advisors guiding you from the planning phase through to installation and maintenance. We use only the best, tested products, creating a design tailored to your energy goals and budget.

Request a quote today or call us to speak with one of our certified solar installers!

Posted in Solar 101